A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia, Part 59

Author: Martin, Joseph. ed. cn; Brockenbrough, William Henry
Publication date: 1835
Publisher: Charlottesville, J. Martin
Number of Pages: 1278

USA > Washington DC > Washington DC > A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia > Part 59
USA > Virginia > A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia > Part 59

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The soil is generally good, some of superior quality, the poorest well suit. ed to small grain,-good meadows can be made almost any where. The county is well suited to rearing stock.

: The principal growth consists of poplar, hickory. beech, sugar maple, white and black oak, lynn, buckeye, black walnut; chesnut on the mountains and ridges, and wild cherry is found in many places.

. The chief productions are, Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, hemp, flax, &c. and apples and peaches in abundance. Many horses, horned cattle and hogs are reared in, and driven out of the county.

, RIVERS, &c .- The North fork of Holston and Clinch rivers, run through the county,-each afford the facilities of boat navigation down them in times of freshets; and with some improvement would add greatly to the conve- nience of the country for the purposes of trade; they both afford fine fish. Clinch river, for a river of its size, is remarkable for its fish. Some of the largest taken in it are of the following weight :- blue cats, 30 to 40 lbs .- salmon, 15 lbs .- carp, 15 lbs-red horse, 7 lbs. & c.

: Big Mocasin Creek rises in Russell county at the foot of Clinch moun- tain-winds along the North side of the mountain, a distance of about 30 miles, to Big Mocasin Gap .- Little Mocasin creek rises at the foot of said mountain in a different direction, runs along the mountain a distance of about seven miles to said Gap, where the two streams form a junction, flow through the Gap on nearly level ground, and pass on to the North fork of Holston. Clinch mountain here is large and the Gap, although formed abruptly, is so perfectly level that the main western road in passing through it, does not ascend more than in passing up a gently flowing stream .- Big Mocasin Gap is situated about one mile east of Estillville.

Sinking Creek empties into Clinch river about 22 miles north of Estill- ville, is 6 or 7 miles long, and large for its length. It rises on the south side of said river, in Copper ridge, and when it approaches within three- fourths of a mile of the river, sinks, passes under the bed of the river and rises about one hundred yards from the river on the north side; and runs back into the river,-the stream rising has often been proved to be the same that sinks .- F'ish from the river pass into the inouth of the creek in the. fall . of the year in large numbers, winter under ground, and return to the river in the spring, when many are caught in a trap fixed between the rising water and river.

. MINERALS, &c .- Iron ore abounds in every part of the county -- stone coal of good quality is found in many places-marble, considered coarse, abounds about Estillville-lime and free stone quarries are abundant-salt water has lately been discovered by boring at the distance of upwards of

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300 feet below the surface, in the Poor Valley, near the North fork of Hol- ston, and about 8 miles east of Estillville. The proprietor, Col. James White of Abingdon, is now letting down pipes and making preparations to work the well. The quality and quantity of the water is not yet fully ascer- tained in consequence of the interference of fresh water, which was struck first near the surface ;- there however appears to be no doubt among those employed at the well but that it may be profitably worked.

The Holston Springs, situated on the North fork of Holston, south of Estillville 2 miles, or 4 miles as the road runs, is considered by many to be not inferior to any springs in the state for the medicinal virtues of the water, but as yet has gained no great celebrity in consequence of the accom- modations being inferior to those of mnost other watering places.

The White Sulphur Springs, near the Rye Cove N. W. of Estillville 8 miles, is considered equal to the Catawba Springs in. Washington county- There are many other Sulphur Springs in the county of less note.

There are in the county, exclusive of the town of Estillville, 9 meeting houses, 6 of which belong to the Methodists and 3 to the Baptists ;- the Me- thodists also have 18 or 20 other preaching places in the county, where they have societies. formed and preach every other week-6 stores, 4 tanyards, 10 licensed houses of private entertainment, 4 hatter shops, 33 mills; some of which are very ordinary, others make good flour; but none are entitled to the appellation of merchant mill To 10 or 15 of these mills, saw mills are attached,-and to two, carding machines.

The climate is somewhat milder than that of Washington or Russell counties-vegetation commencing at Estillville one or two weeks sooner than at Abingdon or Lebanon. There is but one practicing attorney besides those residing in Estillville, and no regular physician.

Population in 1820, 4,263 -- in 1830, 5,724. It belongs to the 15th judicial circuit and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833, $646 73-in 1834. on lots, 825 76 -- land, $273 95-180 slaves, $45 00-2032 horses, 8121 92 -13 studs, $55 00-3 carryalls, $3 00-Total, 8524 63. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 8242 61-in 1833, 8361 56.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c ..

ESTILLVILLE, P. V. and seat equalled by none except the Sweet of justice, 357 ms. S. W. of R. and 433 S. W. by W. of W. . It contains besides the county buildings, 61 dwel- ling houses, 2 houses of public wor- ship, (1 Methodist and I Presbyte- rian,) 1 academy, I common school and 1 female do , 4 mercantile stores, 2 tanyards, 2 saddlers, 3 blacksmiths, 1 extensive hat manufactory, 2 cabi- net makers, several house carpenters, and various other mechanics. It is situated on Mocasin creek, between the N. fork of Holston and Clinch , rivers, and 4 miles from the Hol- ston Springs, which are now visited quantity within 6 miles of the C. H. by much company, and said to be. A northern, southern, eastern and

Springs, to which they have a consid- erable resemblance. This place is: supplied with water by means of pipes, through which it is brought 800 yards, and is conveyed to every dwelling .. The water is of the purest and best quality. This place possesses some of the best water falls and sites for manufacturing establishments in Wes- tern Virginia, and other advantages not to be surpassed by any village in the state. The country around abounds with stone coal and iron ore, and salt, water has lately been obtained in greut

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western mail arrives in this village|mentioned, occur very frequently, Once a week. Population 200 per- sons; of whom three are resident at- torneys and two regular physicians.

County Courts are held on the 1st Wednesday after the 2d Monday in every month ;- Quarterly in March, June, August, and November.

Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery are held on the 2d Monday in April and September, by JUDGE ESTILL.

OSBORN FORD, P .. O. 20 ms. north of Estillville.

PENDLETON, P. O. 367 ms. from R. and 443 from W .- Situated 12 ms. N. W. of Estillville.

STOCK CREEK, P. O. 368 ms. from R. and 444 from W .- Situated 11 ms. W. of Estillville. The remarka- ble NATURAL TUNNEL is situ- ated near this P. O. We present an account of this natural curiosity writ- ten by S. H. LONG, Lieut. Col. U. S. Army originally from the Monthly American Journal of Geology, in which it was published in February, 1832. -

"The immediate locality of this tunnel is upon a small stream called Buck-eye, or Stock creek. This last name owes its origin to its valley hav- ing been resorted to by the herdsmen of the country, for the attainment of a good range, or choice pasture ground for their cattle, The creek rises in Powell's mountain, and is tributary to Clinch river, which it enters at the distance of between two and three miles below the tunnel. The aspect of.the surrounding country, and espe-

bounding the valleys of the streams generally in this part of the country, and opposing ramparts of formidable height, and in many places utterly in- surmountable. Such are the features peculiarly characteristic of Wild Cat Valley, the Valley of Copper Creek, of Powell's and Clinch rivers, and of numerous other streams of less note, all of which are situated within a few miles of the natural tunnel.

"To form an adequate idea of this remarkable and truly sublime object, we have only to imagine the creek to which it gives a passage, meandering through a deep narrow valley, here and there bounded on both sides by walls or revetements of the character above intimated, and rising to the height of two or three hundred feet above the stream; and that a portion of one of these chasms, instead of presenting an open thorough cut from the summit to the base of the high grounds, is intercepted by a continu- ous unbroken ridge more than three hundred feet high, extending entirely across the valley, and perforated trans- versely at its base, after the manner of an artificial tunnel, and thus af- fording a spacious subterranean chan- nel for the passage of the stream.

"The entrance to the natural tun- nel on the upper side of the ridge, is imposing and picturesque, in a high degree; but on the lower side, the grandeur of the scene is greatly heightened by the superior magnitude of the cliffs, which exceed in loftiness, and which rise perpendicularly-and manner-two to three hundred feet; and by which the entrance on this side amphitheatre of rude and frightful precipices.

cially of that to the northward of the |in some instances in an impending tunnel, and constituting the southerly slope of the mountain just mentioned, is exceedingly diversified and broken, is almost environed, as it were, by an

by elevated spurs and ridges, separat- ed from each other by deep chasms, walled with cliffs and mural precipi- "The observer, standing on the brink of the stream, at the distance of about one hundred yards below the ces, often presenting exceedingly nar. row passes, but occasionally widening into meadows or bottoms of considera- |debouchure of the natural tunnel, has, ble extent. The mural precipices just in front, a view of its arched entrance,

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rising seventy or eighty feet above the mation, a little within it. I have not water, and surmounted by horizontal been able to discover any organic re- mains in the limestone there, or in the neighborhood. On the little project tions of the rock which occur on the walls, near the lower (S.) end of the tunnel, a crystallized deposit is lodged, which you no doubt recollect, that seemed to my taste to be a mixture of saltpetre and alum. No attempt has been made to analyze it. The earth found near the upper (N.) extremity of the tunnel some years ago, (the first time I visited it,) afforded şaltpe, tre. The crystallized deposit seems

stratifications of yellowish, white and grey rocks, in depth nearly twice the height of the arch. On his left, a view of the same mural precipice, de- flected from the springing of the arch in a manner to pass thence in a con- tinuous curve quite to his rear, and towering in a very impressive man- ner, above his head. On his right, a sapling growth of buck-eye, poplar, linden, &c. skirting the margin of the creek, and extending obliquely to the right, and upward through a narrow, abrupt ravine, to the summit of the to be made from a stratum apparently ridge, which is here, and elsewhere, not more than six inches thick, which crowned with a timber growth of pines, cedars, oaks, and shrubbery of various kinds. On his extreme right, is a gi- gantic cliff lifting itself up perpendi- cularly from the water's edge, to the height of about three hundred feet, and accompanied by an insulated cliff,

' called the chimney, of about the same (asimina triloba) on the banks of the altitude, rising in the form of a tur- ret, at least sixty feet above its base- ment, which is a portion of the impos- ing cliff just before mentioned.

" In order to give a more full de- scription of the magnificent spectacle which forms the subject of this article, I shall transcribe some of the minutes taken from my private notes, whilst on the ground; but first I shall give an extract from a letter addressed to me by my friend P. C. Johnston, Esq. of Abingdon, in the adjoining county to Scott, a gentleman well acquainted with this interesting locality.

"The rocks through which Stock creek flows, are a light blue and gray limestone, of a subcrystalline charac- ter; the strata are nearly horizontal; and this arrangement of the strata is obvious for several miles northeast- wardly; but in every other direction, very near the bridge, (natural tunnel,) they have the dip usual in the coun- try to the S. E. at an angle generally of from 30° to 50°. This tunnel is near what I have believed to be the N. W. boundary of the transition for- same time together.

is so high that it cannot be reached for examination. The growth of tim, ber is such as is common in the neigh- boring country, white, red, spanish, black oaks; hickory, white walnut, dogwood, poplar, chesnut, birch, iron, wood; some hemlock and pawpaw creek, and the edges of the cliffs fring- ed with cedar. On the creek, below the tunnel for two miles, is found that variety of ash called the fringe tree, (chionanthus virginica, ) the long white fringe-like blossoms of which are so delightfully fragrant.'

The following passages are from my own private journal:

'Saturday, Aug. 13, 1831. Hay. ing ascended Cove ridge, we turned aside from our route to visit the natu- ral bridge, or tunnel, situated on Buck- eye, or Stock creek, about a mile be- low the Sycamore camp,t and ahout one and a half miles from a place call.

* This plant, in the natural system, be- longs to the oleacer, or olive tribe. 'The flowers of the olea fragrans are used for flavoring tea in China. We offer this hint to our readers who have access to the chio- nanthus .- ED.

t Thisdesignation has been given to a spot in the valley of the creek, where formerly stood a hollow sycamore (plantanus occi- dentalis) tree of an enormous size, the re- mains of which are still to be seen, and in the cavity of which, whilst it stood, fifteen persons are said to have encamped at the

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ed Rye cove, which occupies a spa- its reverberations upon the roof and cious recess between two prominent sides of the grotto. The discharge of a musket produces a crash-like report, succeeded by a roar in the tunnel, which has a deafening effect upon the ear. spurs of Powell's mountain, the site of the natural tunnel being included with- ina spur of Cove ridge, which is one of the mountain spurs just alluded to. " The hill through which this sin, gular perforation leads, descends in a direction from east to west, across the line of the creek, and affords a very convenient passage for a road which traverses it at this place, having a de- scent in the direction just mentioned, of about four degrees.' Here is presented one of the most re- markable and attractive curiosities of its kind to be witnessed in this or any other country. The creek, which is about seven yards wide, and · has a general course about S. 15 W. here passes through a hill elevated from two to three hundred feet above the " The rocks found in this part of the country are principally sandstone and limestone, in stratifications nearly horizontal, with occasional beds of clay slate. A mixture of the two for- mer frequently occurs among the al- ternations presented by these rocks. A variety of rock resembling the French burr, occurs in abundance on Butcher's fork, of Powell's river, about twenty miles northwardly of surface of the stream, winding its way through a huge subterraneous cavern, or grotto, whose roof is vaulted in a peculiar manner, and rises from se- venty or eighty feet above its floor. The sides of this gigantic cavern rise perpendicularly in some places to the height of fifteen or twenty feet, and in others, are formed by the spring- ing of its vaulted roof immediately from its floor. The width of the tun- the natural tunnel. Fossils are more nel varies from fifty to one hundred or less abundant in these and other and fifty feet; its course is that of a rocks, Fossil bones of an interesting character have been found in several places. Saltpetre caves are numerous. Coves, sinks and subterranean caverns are strikingly characteristic, not only of the country circumjacent to the na- tural tunnel, but of the region gene- rally situated between the Cumber- land mountain and the Blue Ridge or Apalachain mountain. Bituminous coal, with its usual accompaniments, abounds in the northerly parts of this region ; and in the intermediate and southerly portions, iron, variously combined, often magnetic, together with talcose rocks, &c. &c. are to be met with in great abundance. continuous curve, resembling the let- ter S, first winding to the right as we enter on the upper side, then to the left, again to the right, and then again to the left, on arriving at the entrance on the lower side. Such is its pecu- liar form, that an observer, standing at a point about midway of its subter- ranean course, is completely excluded from a view of either entrance, and is left to grope in the dark through a distance of about twenty yards, occu- pying an intermediate portion of the tunnel. When the sun is near the meridian, and his rays fall upon both entrances, the light reflected from both extremities of the tunnel, contributes to mollify the darkness of this interior portion into a dusky twilight.

" The extent of the tunnel from its upper to its lower extremity, following its meanders, is about 150 yards, in which distance the stream falls about ten feet, emitting, in its passage over a rocky bed, an agreeable murmur, height of at least four thousand five which is rendered more grateful by hundred feet above tide."

" The mountains in this vicinity, long. 82° to 84° W. from Greenwich, lat. 35° to 36º N. are among the most lofty of the Alleghany range. Seve- ral knobs in this part of the range, among which may be enumerated the Roan, the Unaka, the Bald, the Black, and Powell's mountains, rise to the

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SHENANDOAH.

SHENANDOAH was established by act of Assembly in 1772, from a por-> tion of the county of Frederick under the name of DUNMORE, from the name of Lord Dunmore, then Governor of Virginia; but in October 1777 after Lord Dunmore had taken a decided stand against the colonies in the contest with the mother country, one of the delegates from the county stated that his constituents no longer wished to live in, or he to represent, a coun- ty, bearing the name of such a tory, he therefore moved to call it Shenan- doah, after the name of the beautiful stream which passed through it; which was accordingly adopted. Shenandoah is bounded N. and N. E. by Fred- erick,-E. and S. E. by Page,-S. and S. W. by Rockingham,-W. and N. W. by Hardy. Its average lat. is about 38º 50' N. and long. 1º 30' W. of W. C .;- its greatest length from S. W. to N. E. is 32 miles,-average width 15,-and area 384 sq. ms. 'This is a fertile and populous county, situated in the valley. The whole county is traversed by the North Fork of Shenandoah river, lying between the Massanutten and North mountain. The North and South branches of the Shenandoah river pass through the entire length of the county and Page, and unite immediately below its north-eastern line, and form the Shenandoah river. They admit of a descending naviga- tion when the waters are a little swollen,-its creeks are Cedar creek; Pas- sage creek, Stoney creek, Mill creek and Smith's creek. It is divided into four valleys, two of which are long and two small,-by the Three Topped or Massanutten mountain and the Little North mountain. The larger val- leys are watered by the North and South Shenandoah rivers, the smaller vallies by Cedar and Passage creeks. The land in the vallies is principal. ly limestone, and is well adapted to the cultivation of wheat, rye, Indian corn and oats, and is divided into small farms. Its staple articles are flour; bacon, beef, butter and iron. There are within it 34 manufacturing flour mills, 2 furnaces and 4 forges, for the manufacturing of pig metal into bar iron, and another furnace and forge are now being erected. Its mineral re, sources have been but partially explored. Iron ore of the best quality abounds, copper, lead, cobalt and copperas have been found, but not in sut- ficient quantities to justify working them. There are several chalybeate and sulphur springs which are places of resort in the warm season.

THE VALLEY OF THE GOONEY is situated in the eastern part of the county, immediately at the western base of the Blue Ridge. It is bounded on the S. by the Hog-back mountain, which is one of the highest summits of the Blue Ridge, on the E. by the Blue Ridge; on the N. and W. by Dickey's hill and the Buck mountain, both of which, are spurs of the Blue Ridge. It is about 7 miles in length and 4 in breadth. The face of this section of country, is hilly and rugged, but the soil is sufficiently produc- tive, and yields, when well cultivated, abundant crops of corn, wheat, rye, &c. Clover and timothy thrive remarkably well on this soil, as plaster acts with an astonishing effect. . There is a great proportion of excellent meadow land, there being scarcely a field that has not one or more streams of water passing through it. Almost every farmer has a spring of excellent mountain water near his door, and breathing a pure mountain atmosphere; the inhabitants are extremely healthy and robust, having uniformly es- caped those periodical diseases which have been so fatal in other sections of Virginia. The principal stream is the Gooney, which is a creek of the largest class. It rises near the top of the Blog back, and running a N. W.

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course about aniles' empties into the South River about 5 miles, above the town of Front Royal. It affords some fine situations for water-works, and moves several merchant mills and saw mills. The mountains, with which it is surrounded, afford an inexhaustible supply of excellent timber. There is a woollen factory, 1 common school, 2 churches (Methodist and Baptist) and several extensive distilleries of grain,-whiskey, plank and flour being the chief articles of export. This valley is thickly settled by a hardy, honest and industrious people. From the top of the Blue Ridge, at Dade's gap, nearly opposite the town of Washington, in the county of Rappahan. nock, there is a magnificent view of the eastern part of the county of Shenan- doah (now Page) and of the county of Rappahannock. Near this place there is a remarkable rock called the Raven's Den, it having been occupied as the aerie of that wild bird from time immemorial. It is entirely inaccessible to man. Near Cheek's gap, Lann's run, a bold mountain current, a branch of the Gooney, forms a most beautiful cascade, the water falling 60 or 70 feet perpendicular. There is another beautiful cascade near Milford, formed by the stream which divides the counties of Shenandoah and Page; the wa- ters of which fall about 100 feet at one perpendicular pitch.

THE FORT MOUNTAIN. This name has been given to a range of moun; tains in the county of Shenandoah, which are, in elevation, about equal to the Blue Ridge. This range commences nearly opposite to the town of Newmarket, at which place it is called the Massanutten mountain, and ex- tends in a direction nearly from S. W. to N. E. or in a line coinciding with the meanderings of the North branch of the Shenandoah river. Unlike the Blue Ridge, which is extremely fertile, and the greater part of which is susceptible of successful and profitable cultivation, this mountain is pre- cipitous and rugged in the extreme, and is covered, for the most part, with a thick growth of oak, pine, hickory, chesnut, &c. Its forests afford a shelter for a great number of deer, bears, turkies and other game, with which the mountain abounds. Nearly opposite the town of Luray in the county of Page, its eastern base is washed by the South, and its western base by the North branch of the Shenandoah river. At this place the mountain forks, and instead of one, there are two distinct mountains, stretch- ing in the same direction, and running parallel to each other. These mountains form what is termed the Fort. They have received the name " Fort Mountains," from the peculiar form of the valley which they enclose, which, with the addition of some slight military fortifications might be ren- dered impregnable. The only road which crosses this mountain is the one" which leads from Luray to Woodstock, which is at the upper end of the Fort, and which at the expense of mnch labor is kept passable for light loaded carriages. The valley which is enclosed by these mountains, is about 25 miles in length and about 3 in mean breadth. It is tolerably fruitful in grass, corn, rye, buck wheat, potatoes, turnips, &c. At the up- per end of the Fort, rises Passage creek, a large and very rapid mountain enrrent, which works several fine merchant mills. Its whole length is about 30 miles. 'T'he Fort is supposed to be extremely rich in mineral ores, of which iron and copper are among its discovered mineral productions, There are in the Fort, several common schools, 2 Meeting-houses, 3 grist mills, 3 oil mills, a powder factory, several smith shops and a sufficient number of mechanics. The population is about 700 souls. In making an excavation for a well, a few weeks since, (Jan. 1834,) some fine specimens of petrifaction were discovered at a considerable distance below the present

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A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia, Part 59

Author: Martin, Joseph. ed. cn; Brockenbrough, William Henry Publication date: 1835 Publisher: Charlottesville, J. Martin Number of Pages: 1278

Author: Martin, Joseph. ed. cn; Brockenbrough, William Henry
Publication date: 1835
Publisher: Charlottesville, J. Martin
Number of Pages: 1278