A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia, Part 40

Author: Martin, Joseph. ed. cn; Brockenbrough, William Henry
Publication date: 1835
Publisher: Charlottesville, J. Martin
Number of Pages: 1278

USA > Washington DC > Washington DC > A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia > Part 40
USA > Virginia > A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia > Part 40

Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).

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WESTERN VIRGINIA.

ALLEGHANY.

ALLEGHANY was created by the legislature in 1822, and formed from portions of Bath, Bottetourt and Monroe. It is bounded N. by Bath-and a small portion of Greenbrier, E. by Rockbridge and Bottetourt, S. by Mon- roe, and W. by Greenbrier; its mean length is 26 ms. ; mean breadth 20; and area 521 sq. ms. It lies between lat. 37° 35', and 38º N. and the cen- tre about 3° W. long. from W. C. Most of this county is a high mountain valley, drained by the head waters of the James river. Pott's and Dun- lap's creeks rise in Monroe and flow N. E. until they unite with Jackson's river near Covington, about the centre of the county. Jackson's river rises in Pendleton, and flowing S. through Bath, enters Alleghany, passess the gap between Peter's and the Warm Spring mountains, receives Pott's creek from the S., and then turns first N. E. and then after turning the N. E. flank of Rich Patch mountain, it flows S. E. into Bottetourt. Cow-Pas- ture river rises also in Pendleton, flows by a tortuous channel, nearly due S. through Bath and Alleghany, and unites with Jackson's river, soon after it passes into Bottetourt. These two rivers by their union constitute the James. Much of the surface of this county is covered with mountains; its mean level exceeds 10,000 ft. above the tides of the ocean. The main Al- leghany chain forms its boundary on the W. Peter's mountain and Warm Spring mountain divide the county into nearly two equal parts, having only a narrow gap at Covington. Pott or Middle mountain and Rich Patch, form its boundary on the S. E. Besides these continuous ranges, there are a number of others filling up the intervals, such as Oliver, Morris, Beard's, &c. The staples of the county are grain, and its products gene- rally the same as other counties situated in the same latitude. Population in 1830, 2,816. It belongs to the 17th judicial circuit and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, 3473 15-in 1834 on lots, $39 26-on land, $273 42 -348 slaves, 887 00-926 horses, 855 56-2 studs, 813 00-7 coaches, 812 00-5 carryalls, 85 00-2 gigs, 81 00. Total, $488 24. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 887 00-in 1833, $166 47.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. 1.

CALAHAN's P. O. 196 ms. from R.|confluence with the Cow Pasture, and 238 ms. from W., situated at the and directly opposite the termination junction of roads leading to the of the Kanawha turnpike road. It Warm, Sweet and White Sulphur Springs.

contains besides the county buildings, 50 dwelling houses, and about the same number of mechanic shops.

COVINGTON, P. V. and Seat of Justice, 191 ms. W. of R. and 233 The buildings are principally of S. W. of W. Covington is situated at brick, and in some of them much taste the head of the James river navigationlis displayed; 2 handsome and spa- on Jackson's river, 15 ms. above its cious houses of public worship are

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about being erected, (1 Presbyterian(command the trade of a large and fer- and 1 Methodist,) 1 English and tile region of country, which abounds Classical school, and 3 mercantile in all the products of the earth; and the mountains, of which abound in iron, and present sufficient water power, to force any quantity of ma- chinery. Its situation is healthy, being located in the midst of the mountains. Property in this place is handsome and eligible, on one of has lately advanced 25 per cent in anticipation of the contemplated im- provement. Population about 300 persons; of which 3 are attorneys, and 2 regular physicians. stores. The mechanics are tanners, saddlers, boot and shoe makers, hat- ters, tailors, gunsmiths, house carpen- ters, cabinet makers, wagon makers, copper smiths, chair makers, black- smiths and last makers. Its situation the greatest thoroughfares in Virgin- ia, as travellers from E. to W. pass through this place to the Virginia Springs, it being nearly equi-distant from several, viz :- 20 ms. from the County Courts are held on the 3d Monday in every month. Quar- terly in March, June, August and November. White Sulphur, 22 from the Sweet Springs, 25 from the Ilot Springs, 27 from the Warm Springs and 45 from the Salt Sulphur. Should the con- JUDGE TAYLOR holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the 18th of April and Sep- tember. templated James and Kanawha im- provements be carried into operation, Covington may become one of the most flourishing inland towns in Vir- JACKSON RIVER, P. O. 178 ms. N. ginia, as it will probably be the place of R. and 221 S. W. by. W. of W. of depot between the land and water MORRIS HILL, P. O. 184 ms. W. communication ; and it likewise will of R. and 227 from W.

AUGUSTA.

AUGUSTA county was originally a portion of Orange county and contin ued so, until it became sufficiently populous to claim the rights of a sepa- rate, independent county, which rank was given to it in 1738. The first court after it was laid off from Orange was held in Staunton, in the year 1745, and its jurisdiction extended from the summit of the Blue Ridge to the Ohio river, including the present state of Kentucky, and from the James river to Frederick.

As the population increased, it became necessary to divide this immense tract into various counties, at different times, until it assumed its present shape and size in the year 1790.

The summit of the Blue Ridge forms the eastern boundary, until it strikes the line of Rockbridge, the line then runs a straight course in a N. E. di- rection, crossing the North mountain, until it reaches the summit of Walk- er's mountain, following this and the Cow Pasture mountain in a N. W. course, it strikes the corner of Rockingham, and runs thence in a S. W. direction, a straight course to the Blue Ridge.

The length of Augusta county is about 34 ms. ; the breadth 35,-and its area about 348 sq. ms. extending entirely across the Valley. The surface is generally uneven, -- in many places hilly ; and in some instances it rises into eminences that deserve the name of mountains. Towards the north- ern boundary, however, it spreads out into more extensive bottoms of very

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rich and fertile land. The soil is best adapted to agriculture and grazing. Large quantities of grain are raised for exportation, and there are within the county, 17 merchant mills, which are almost exclusively employed in manufacturing flour for this purpose. Cattle are also exported in conside- rable numbers.

Although this county is well watered and abounds in fine springs, there are no very large streams, from the fact, that it is the highest land in the Valley, and divides the head waters of the James and Shenandoah rivers.

The great Calf Pasture river runs through nearly half of the county, and wends its way in a S direction to the James river, while the north, middle and south rivers, (the last two of which run nearly through the whole extent of the county) meet near the northern boundary, and form the Shenandoah. Christian's and Lewis' creeks are branches of the Middle river, and Mossy creek of the N. These streams are all valuable, on ac- count of numerous mill seats upon them, which are always abundantly sup- plied with water.

The mineral treasures of this county, have been but partially developed. Very little interest has been felt on this subject, except so far as it has been quickened by a hope of gain. Iron ore beds have been known and profita- bly worked for many years; and there is at present a furnace for the manu- facturing and casting of iron in active operation; Miller's Iron Works, near the northern boundary, at the foot of the North mountain.

Anthracite coal has lately been found in the vicinity of the Augusta Springs, and along the North mountain. It contains a portion of sulphur, though it becomes more pure as the excavation progresses, and gives pro- mise of affording an abundant supply of this valuable mineral.

The predominant rock in this part of the Valley is lime rock, which in some places is sufficiently hard to be used as marble, though it is not worked as such. In connection with this rock may be found rhombic chrystals of carbonite of lime, and dog tooth spar : the latter rarely. In the vicinity of Staunton, a species of calcedony in great quantities is scattered about : some of which is very pure.

Springs are very abundant in all parts of the county, some of which are mineral and highly medicinal.

The Augusta Springs are valuable, as a resort for invalids, and are daily becoming more noted. They are 12 ms. N. W. of Staunton, situated in a delightful country. The water is strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen, and are said by those who should be judges, to equal the cele- brated springs of Harrowgate, in England. Besides the Augusta Springs there are two other Sulphur Springs in the county, both of which are equal- ly strongly impregnated; but there are few, if any accommodations for visi- tors at either of them. One is on the Free turnpike leading from Staunton to the Warm Springs, 17 ms. from S. : the other on the old road, 18 ms. from Staunton.

A Chalybeate Spring has recently been discovered very near the Augus- ta Springs, but it has never been analyzed.

About 12 ms. S. W. from Staunton, is a large spring that ebbs and flows daily ;- there are two similar springs in Bath.

The whole of Angusta county is based upon lime rock,-and from the nature of that rock, necessarily contains many curions fissures, excavations and caverns. Only two of these, however, deserve a notice, Madison's and Weyer's cave's which are both situated in the same ridge, and are but 200

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yards apart. Madison's cave has been described by Jefferson,* in his notes on Virginia, but Weyer's has been described and explored since that time, and is far more worthy of being immortalized. The length of this this stu- pendous Cavern in a straight course is 1650 ft., but the distance is more than doubled by following the various windings. There are numerous apart- ments, some of which are magnificent. One measures 257 ft. in length, from 10 to 20 in breadth, and 33 in height,-another is 153 ft. long, 15 wide, and 60 high, while a third reaches the height of 100 feet ! Every part is stud- ded with beautiful stalactites, that lead you almost to believe that you have descended into the jewelled fruit garden, where hung Alladin's lamp.t

* We extract a portion of Mr. Jefferson's description which is referred to in the text, and give also some later information concerning Madison's Cave. " It is situat- ed on the N. side of the Blue Ridge, near the intersection of the Rockinghamn and Augusta line, with the south fork of the southern river of Shenandoah. It is in a hill of about 200 ft. perpendicular height, the ascent of which, on one side is so steep that you may pitch a biscuit from its suinmit into the river which washes its base. The entrance of the cave, is in this side, about two-thirds of the way up. It extends into the earth about 300 ft., branching into subordinate caverns, sometimes ascending a little, but more generally descending, and at length terminates in two different places, at basins of water of unknown extent, and which I should judge to be nearly on a level with the waters of the river ; however, I do not think they are formed by refluent waters from that, because they are never turbid; because they do not rise and fall in correspondence with that, in times of flood and of drought; and because the water is always cool. It is as probably one of the many reservoirs with which the interior parts of the earth are supposed to abound, and which yield supplies to the fountains of water, distinguished from others only by its being accessible. The vault of this cave is of solid liniestone, from 20 to 40 or 50 ft. high, through which water is continually percolating. This, trickling down the sides of the cave, has enerusted them over in the form of elegant drapery; and dripping from the top of the vaults generates on that, and on the base below, stalaetites of a conical form, some of which have met and formed massive columns."

Madison's Cave derives its name from the father of the late Bishop Madison, who resided near it, and who was equally famed for his hospitality, his practical wit, and his convivial disposition. It has been known 70 or 80 years, but is now little visited as a curiosity,-the earth in it, affords salt petre in proportion of from 2 to 4 pounds to the bushel .- 2000 weight was manufactured here during the years 1813-4. The earth when brought out is at the mouth of the eave put into a plank gutter which conducts it to the bank of the river, at the bottom of the hill, where it is put into tubs or vats mixed with wood ashes-water is passed through it, and this is evaporated to salt by boiling. The lakes of water which are found at the extremity of the cave have been navigated by a boat, and thoroughly explored, sinec Mr. Jefferson wrote; they are 30 or 40 ft. deep, and are bounded on the furthest extremity by rocks so abrupt that a footing can no where be had.

t Weyer's Cave is situated near the northern extremity of Augusta county, Va. 17 ms. N. E. of Staunton, on the eastern side of a ridge running nearly N. and S. parallel to the Blue Ridge, and somewhat more than a mile distant from it.

The western declivity of this ridge is very gradual, and the visiter, as he approach- es from that direction, little imagines from its appearance, that it embowels one of Nature's master pieces. The eastern declivity however, is quite precipitous and dif- fieult of ascent.

The Guide's house is situated on the northern extremity of this ridge, and is distant 800 yds. from the entrance of the cave. In going from the house to the cave, you pass the entrance of Madison's Cave, which is only 200 yds. from the other. Madi- ison's Cave was known and visited as a curiosity, long before the discovery of Wey- er's, but it is now passed by and neglected, as unworthy of notice compared with its more imposing rival, although it has had the pen of' u Jefferson to describe its beauties.

The ascent from the bottom of the hill to the mouth of the cave is steep, but is ren- dered less fatiguing, by the zigzag course of the path, which is 120 yds. in length,

It seems that about the year 1801, one Bernard Weyer ranged these hills, as a hunter; while pursuing his daily vocation, he found his match in a lawless Ground Hog, which not only eluded all his efforts but eventually succeeded in currying off the

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WESTERN VIRGINIA -- AUGUSTA.

Population in 1820, 16,742-1830, 19,926. Augusta belongs to the 12th judicial circuit and 6th district. Tax paid in 1833, $6659 24- in 1834 on lots, $470 80-on land, $4,343 09-2,443 slaves, $610 75- 9,360 horses, $561 60-48 studs, $421 00-78 coaches, $187 85- 1 stage, $3 00-carryalls, $69 95-58 gigs, $39 15. Total, $6,717 19. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $883 59-in 1833, $963 74.

traps, which had been set for his capture. Enraged at the loss of his traps he made an assault upon the domicile of the drepredator, with spade and mattoek.

A few moments labor brought him to the ante-chamber of this stupendous cavern, where he found his traps safely deposited.

- The entrance originally was small and difficult of aceess; but the enterprise of the proprietor, has obviated these inconvenienees: it is notv enelosed by a wooden wall, having a door in its centre, which admits you to the ante-ehamber.

At first it is about 10 ft. in height but after proceeding a few yards, in a S. W. di- rection, it becomes contracted to the space of 4 ft. square.

.At the distanee of 24 ft. from the entrance,-deseending at an angle of 19 degrees ; you reach the DRAGON's Room, so called from a stalactitie concretion, which the No- menelator undoubtedly supposed to resemble that nondescript animal.

Above the Dragon's room there is an opening of considerable beauty, but of small size, called the Devil's Gallery.

Leaving this room, which is not very interesting, you proceed in a more southerly direction, to the entrance of SOLOMON's TEMPLE, through a high but narrow possage, 66 ft. in length, which is by no means difficult of access. Here you make a perpen- dieular descent of 13 ft. by means of substantial stairs securely fixed, and you find yourself in one of the finest rooms in the whole cave. It is irregular in shape, being 30 ft. long, and 45 broad, running nearly at right angles to the main course of the cave. As you raise your eyes, after descending the steps before mentioned they rest upon an elevated seat, surrounded by sparry inerustations, which sparkle beautifully in the light of your candles.

This is not unaptly styled, Solomon's Throne. Every thing in this room , receives its name from the Wise Man; immediately to the left of the steps, as you descend, you will find his Meat-house; and at the eastern extremity of the room, is a beautiful pil- lar of white stalactite, somewhat defaced by the smoke of eandles, called by his name, yet with strange inconsisteney, an incrustation resembling falling water at the right of the steps, has obtained the name of the Falls of Niagara,

Passing Solomon's Pillar, you enter another room, more irregular than the first, but still more beautiful; it would be impossible adequately to deseribe the magnifi- eencc of the roof. I shall therefore merely observe that it is thickly studded with beautiful stalaetites, resembling in form and eolor, the roots of radishes, which have given the appellation of RADISH Room to this delightful place.

The main passage to the rest of the cavern, is immediately opposite to the entrance to Solomon's Temple, and you reach it by an ascent of 12 ft. to what is called the Porter's Lodge. From this place, pursuing the same course, you pass along a pas- sage varying from 10 to 30 ft. in height, from 10 to 15 in breadth, and 50 in length, un- til you reach BARNEY's HALL which receives its name from the fancied resemblance of a prostrate stalactite, at the base of one that is upright, to old Commodore Barney, and the cannon that he used at the Bladensburgh raees.

Near the centre of the room, which is small and scarcely deserves the name, an upright board points out to the visiter the main path of the cave, which runs to the right. Two passages run off to the left,-the first one to a large, irregular room cal- led the LAWYER'S OFFICE, in which is a fine spring, of water or rather a reservoir where the droppings from the ceiling have collected,-the other, through a passage to what is called" THE ARMORY, from an incrustration that has received the name of Ajax's Shield. Between the Lawyer's Office and the Armory, and communicating with both, is another large, irregular apartment, which is named WEYER's HALL, af- ter the original discoverer of the cave, who together with his dog, stands immortal- ized in one corner.

Before we get bewildered and lost in this part of the cave, which is more intricate than any other, let us return to the guide-board in the centre of Barney's Hall, and pursue the route usually taken by visiters. Following the right hand opening men- tioned above, which is rather low being not more than 5 ft. in height, you pass into the TWIN ROOM, taking heed lest you fall into the Devil's Bake Oven, which yawns elose by your fect. This room is small, and communicates directly with the BANNIS- TER ROOM, which is 59 ft. distant from the guide-board. The arch here suddenly ex-

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WESTERN VIRGINIA-AUGUSTA.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

AUGUSTA SPRINGS, P. O. 17 ms. ities, which have been spoken of in N. N. W. of Staunton, 134 ms. N. W. our account of the county. by W. of R. and 176 from W. The DEERFIELD, P. O. 148 ms. from waters have valuable medicinal qual- R. and 190 S. W. of W., situated on'

pands, and becomes elevated to the height of 30 tt., and ty cint of hard climbing you may return to the Porter's Lodge, through a rasage directly over the cre which you . have just passed. There are many beauties in this upper [ assage.

A descent of 39 nt. from the Twin Room, in a direction due west, brings you into the TAN YARD, which contains many beauties. The floor is inegular, in some places sinking into holes somewhat resembling tan-vats, which together with several hang. ing stalactites resembling hides, have given a name to this immense apartment. On the S. E. side of the room, immediately to the left of the main path, is a large opening which admits you at once into the Armory, already mentioned.

Changing your course to the N. W. you leave the Tan Yard, by a rough, but not difficult aseent of 20 ft., at an angle of 18 degrees, into what may be considered as an elevated continuation of the same room, but .which has been deservedly dignified with a distinct appellation.

To your right, as you step upon level ground, you will observe a perpendicular wall of rock, rising with great regularity; if you strike upon it with your hand, it sends forth a deep, mellow sound, strongly resembling the tones of a Bass Drum, whence the room has received the name of the DRUM ROOM. Upon a closer exami- nation, this apparent wall will be found to be only a thin stalactitic partition, extend .. ing from the ceiling to the floor.

There is nothing else of much interest, in this apartment, we will proceed to the more magnificent portions of the cavern.

You leave the Drum Room by a flight of natural stairs, 7 ft. in perpendicular height. A large opening now presents itself, which expands to an extensive apart -: ment, to reach which it is necessary to make a nearly perpendicular descent of 10 ft., by means of a substantial pair of stairs. This apartment is the far famed BALL ROOM. It is 100 ft. long, 36 wide, and about 25 high, running at right angles to the path by which you entered it.

The general course of the room is from N. to S. but at the northern extremity there is a gradual ascent, bcaring round to the E. until you reach a precipice of 20 or 30 ft., from which you can look down into the Tan Yard, having performed a complete circuit.

Near the centre of the Ball Room, is a large, calcarious deposite, that has received the name of Paganini's Statue, from the circumstance that it furnishes a good posi- tion for the music, whenever balls are given in these submundane regiuns. The floor is sufficiently level to admit of dancing upon it, and it is not uncommon, to have balls here. The ladies are accommodated with a very convenient Dressing Room, the only opening to which, communicates directly with the Ball Room.

You leave this room, by a gradual ascent of 42 ft. at the southern extremity, simi -. lar to the one already described at the other. This acclivity is called the French- man's Hill, from the following circumstance :- Some years since, a French gentle- man visited this cave, accompanied only by the guide; they had safely gone through, and returning had reached the top of this hill, when by some accident both of their lights were extinguished, and they were left in Egyptian darkness, without the means of re-lighting their candles.

Fortunately the Guide, from his accurate knowledge of localities, was enabled to conduct him safely to the entrance-a distance of more than 500 ft.

Another gentleman, by the name of Patterson, has immortalized his name by at. tempting the same feat, although it was a complete failure. Hearing of the French. man's adventure, he undertook to find his way back to the entrance, from the Ball Room, without a light-sending his company some distance ahead. He succeeded in ascending the stairs, but had proceeded only a few paces farther, when his feet slipped from under him, and he was prostrated into an aperture, where he lay unhurt until his companions, alarmed at his protracted absence, returned for him. His rest- ing place is called Patterson's Grave to this day.

From the French Hill, a long, irregular passage extends, in a N. W. direction which is denominated the NARROW PASSAGE. This passage is 52 ft. in length,-vary- ing from 3 to 5 ft. in width,-and from 4 to 8 ft. in height. It leads you to the brink of a precipice, 12 ft. in height.

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WESTERN VIRGINIA-AUGUSTA.

the waters of the Calf Pasture river, ms. W. of the former, and 29 E. of in the Calf Pasture Valley, between the latter. The Warm Springs and the North and Cow Pasture moun- Harrisonburg turnpike also passes tains, 4 ms. E. of the county line of Deerfield. It contains a tavern, mer- Bath ; on the main stage road between cantile store and blacksmith's shop. Staunton and the Warm Springs, 26 GREENVILLE, P. V. 133 ms. N.

Natural indentations in the face of this precipice, afford a convenient means of de- scent, and these natural steps have received the name of JACOB'S LADDER. To corres- pond with this name, as in Solomon's Temple, every thing is named after the Patri- arch; a flat rock opposite to the extremity of the Narrow Passage, is Jacob's Tea Table; and a deep, inaccessible perforation in the rock, by its side, is Jacob's Ice House ! Descending the ladder you turn to the left, and pass through a narrow open- ing, still continuing to descend though less perpendicularly, to the centre of a small apartment, called the DUNGEON. The descent from the top of the Ladder to this place is 28 feet.

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A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia, Part 40

Author: Martin, Joseph. ed. cn; Brockenbrough, William Henry Publication date: 1835 Publisher: Charlottesville, J. Martin Number of Pages: 1278

Author: Martin, Joseph. ed. cn; Brockenbrough, William Henry
Publication date: 1835
Publisher: Charlottesville, J. Martin
Number of Pages: 1278