USA > California > History of California, Volume I > Part 34
USA > California > History of California, Volume I > Part 34
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Our Lady of Guadalupe, Saint Michael, and Saint Francis of Assisi were selected as patrons of the ex- pedition, and after the celebration of mass on Sun-
+ Palou says there were 12 of these families and that the whole force for California was 200 souls.
5 There may be some slight inaccuracy respecting the vaqueros, muleteers, and interpreters, the numbers given being those not otherwise disposed of definitely in the diaries. The names are included in the list at end of this volume. There are no means of separating most of them from other parties.
6 Anza, Diario del Teniente Coronel Don Juan Bautista de Anza, Capitan del Presidio de Tubac, Sonora, de su expedicion con familias desde dicho presidio, al reconocimiento del puerto de San Francisco de Alta California; y de su vuelta, desde este puerto al Presidio de San Miguel de HIorcasitas, MS., 232. Com- pleted at Horcasitas on June Ist. This official journal kept by the comandante from day to day throughout the whole expedition is of course the chief authority on the subject. There is an occasional ambiguity of expression which canses confusion, notably so at the beginning where the company is described; but otherwise the diary leaves nothing to be desired. The author was a man of great ability and force of character, besides being very popular with his men. Another original anthority is Font, Journal made by Padre Pedro Font, Apostolic Preacher of the College of Santa Cruz de Querétaro, taken from the minutes written by him on the road, during a journey that he performed to Monterey and the Port of San Francisco, in company with Don Juan Bautista de Anza, etc., MS., 52. Completed at Ures, Sonora, June 23d. This translation was made from the original in the parochial archives of Guad- alajara, or, more probably, from a copy of the same, apparently about 1830, under circumstances of which I know nothing, but evidently with considerable care. The original, which I have not seen, is cited in Prov. St. Pap., MS., xiii. 206, among other documents as Diario que firma el P. Font ... con dos mapas. A copy of the translation was obtained in California by Bartlett, and is cited in that author's Personal Narrative, ii. 78, 278-80. Another copy, probably made from that in my possession, is preserved in the library of the Territorial Pioneers in San Francisco, and an abridgment was pub- lished by that society. Territorial Pioneers of Cal., First Annual, 81-107. The maps are not copied in the translation, though there are a few rude pen drawings, and though the numbers on one of the maps, representing days' journeys, are given in the diary. Fortunately this map, a very interesting and important one, has been found, and a lithographic copy of it-though with many blunders in lettering-published in Hinton's Hand-Book of Arizona, of which book, recently printed, it is the sole meritorious feature so far as history is concerned. I reproduce the map, or that part of it representing California, in this chapter. Font's diary, though less complete and extensive than that of Anza, is still of very great value as an authority on this expedi- tion. Still another original authority is Garcés, Diario y Derrotero que sigu ó el M. R. P. Fr. Francisco Garcés en su viuje hecho desde Octubre de 1775 hasta 17
260
EXPEDITIONS OF ANZA, FONT, AND GARCÉS.
day, they began their march on Tuesday, the 23d of October. Details of the route and march, through Pimería and the country since known as Arizona, belong rather to the annals of those territories than to those of California, but there is little to record anywhere. The route was by San Javier del Bac and Tucson to the river Gila, and down that river generally along the southern bank to the Colorado junction, a route often travelled in the old Jesuit era. The march was not a difficult one. The natives were uniformly hospitable, and ready both to receive trifling gifts and to have the authority of their chieftains confirmed by Spanish appointments. The only mis- fortunes were the death of a woman in childbirth, the desertion of one or two muleteers brought back by natives, and the loss of a few horses from bad water and excessive cold. The only delays were caused by an examination of the famous Casa Grande, by an occasional halt for rest, and by other detentions of a day or two by the birth of young immigrants. They reached the Gila the last day of October and were about a month on the march down to the Colo- rado junction.
Crossing the Gila to the northern bank near its mouth November 28th, Anza and his company were given a hospitable and even enthusiastic welcome by the Yuma chief, Palma, whose domain lay, it seems, on both sides of the Colorado, and who had built a large house of branches especially for the use of the travellers.7 Four soldiers were met here, who had been sent in advance, and had been searching during the past six days, on the California side of the Colo-
de Septiembre de 1776, al Rio Colorado para reconocer las Naciones que habitan sus márgenes, y á los pueblos del Moqui del Nuevo-México, in Doc. Hist. Mex., scrie ii. tom. i. 225-348. This diary is nearly as complete as Anza's, and more so than Font's, down to the time when Anza's expedition left the Colorado for the north-west. Other authorities are Palou, Not., ii. 213-15, 277-82; Id., l'ida, 204-5, 186-7; Arricivita, Crón. Seráf., 461-90, the last being a very full account but with some errors respecting minor details.
7 P. Font's map is incorrect in representing the ford of the Colorado as below the Gila, while all three diaries say that it was a little way above.
261
ON THE COLORADO.
rado, for a more direct route than that followed the year previous; but without success, as neither water nor grass could be found. The first task, and by no means an easy one, was to get the large company with cattle and stores safely across the river. The Yumas said the Colorado was not fordable, and must be crossed by means of rafts, a slow and tedious proc- ess, but one which Anza was inclined to think neces- sary for the families and supplies at least. At seven o'clock in the morning of the 29th he went down to the bank to reconnoitre. He ordered the neces- sary timber for rafts, and then with a soldier and a Yuma determined to make one final search for a ford, which he found about half a mile up the river, where the water was diverted by islands into three channels. The afternoon was spent in opening a road through the thickly wooded belt along the bank; and on the 30th before night all the families and most of the supplies were landed on the western side, without the use of rafts.
The travellers remained in camp on the right bank for three days, partly on account of the dangerous illness of two men, and also to make certain needful preparations for the comfort and safety of the two friars who were to remain here until Anza's return. Father Garcés was requested to select the place where he would reside, and chose Palma's ranchería about a league below the camp and about opposite the mouth of the Gila. So earnest were Palma's assurances of friendship and protection that it was deemed safe to leave the missionaries with their three servants and three interpreters. Before starting Anza built a house, and left provisions for over four months, and horses for the use of the remaining party, whose purpose was to explore the country, become acquainted with the natives, and thus open the way for the establishing of regular missions at an early date. I shall presently have more to say of their travels in California. Set- ting out December 4th from Palma's ranchería, Anza
262
EXPEDITIONS OF ANZA, FONT, AND GARCÉS.
marched slowly down the river, the way made difficult by the dense growth of trees and shrubs, by cold, and by illness in the company. The first halt was at the rancherías of San Pablo, or of Captain Pablo as Font says; the second was at the lagoon of Coxas, or Cojat, the southern limit of Yuma possessions and of Palma's jurisdiction; and the third, on the 6th of December, was at the lagoon of Santa Olaya, the beginning of Cajuenche territory, about twelve leagues below the mnouth of the Gila.8
During the stay at Santa Olaya Garcés overtook the party, having already set out to explore the coun- try toward the mouth of the Colorado. Anza divided his force into three parties under the command of himself, Grijalva, and Moraga, who started on the 9th, 10th, and 11th, respectively, and were reunited December 17th at. San Sebastian. I give some de- tails of names and distances in a note.º I also append a copy of Font's inap, substituting names for numbers in the case of important places and where space per- mits. The route followed was nearly the same as in Anza's former trip, and substantially that of the modern railroad through Coahuila Valley and San Gorgonio Pass. The journey, every petty detail of
8 Font, Journal, MS., 16, 17, makes the distance 14 leagues with some winding, and the latitude 32° 33' which by the distances is very nearly accurate. Garcés, Diario, 244, calls the lagoon Santa Eulalia. By Anza and Font the name is written Olalla. See chap. x. for Anza's trip of 1774.
9 Route from Palma's rancheria on the west bank of the Colorado near mouth of the Gila to San Gabriel. The courses are from Font's Journal, Anza's agreeing with them generally but being less definitely expressed. The distances in parentheses, differing widely from Anza's, are from Font, whose leagues were about 2 miles. The numbers refer to Font's map: 42. Laguna of San Pablo, or Capt. Pablo, 4} 1. (5) w. ¿ s. w .; 43. Laguna of Coxas, or Cojat, 3 1. (4) s. w., Laguna of Santa Olalla, 32° 33', 41. (5) s. w .; 45. Pozo del Carrizal, or Alegría, 5 1. (7) w. N. w .; 46. Dry Gulch, 5 1. (7) w. N.w .; 47. Pozos de Santa Rosa de las Lajas, 101. (14) w. N. w., w., w. s. w .; 48. Dry Creek, 41. (3) N .; San Sebastian, 33° S', 531. (7) N. N. W .; 51. Pozo de San Gregorio, 73 1. (9) w. ¿ N. w .; 52. Arroyo of Santa Catalina del Vado, Sink, 4 1. N. w. ¿ w .; 53. Id., source, 1} 1. (1) N. w. ¿ w .; 54. Danzantes ranchería in same cañada, 31. (4) w. N. w .; San Carlos Pass (San Gorgonio?) 2} ]. (3) N. N. W .; [123. Porte- zuclo on return;] 56. San Patricio Cañada, source of stream, 33° 37'; 57. San José Arroyo, 61. (7) N. w. ¿ w .; 58. Laguna of San Antonio Bucareli, down San José Valley, 41. (5) w. N. w .; Santa Ana River, 91. (S) w. N. w .; 60. Arroyo de los Alisos, 6 1. w. N. w .; 61. River San Gabriel, branch, 5 1. (6) W. N. W., San Gabriel, 34° 33', 2 1. w. s. W.
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264
EXPEDITIONS OF ANZA, FONT, AND GARCÉS.
which is fully described in the commandant's diary, was a slow, tedious, and difficult one, requiring a full month for its accomplishment; and the fact that it was accomplished at all under the circumstances speaks highly for Anza's energy and ability. Long stretches of country without water must be crossed, and at first the company must be divided that all should not arrive the same day at the same watering- place. It was midwinter, the cold was intense, and most of the company were not accustomed to a cold climate. Storm followed storm of snow and hail and rain, and an earthquake came to increase the terrors of San Gorgonio pass. They were obliged to dig wells, and then obtained only a small supply of water, and the cattle were continually breaking away in search of the last aguage. There was much sickness; and yet, beyond the loss of some hundred head of live-stock, there was no serious disaster, owing to the skill and patience of Anza and his aids. On the first day of 1776 the new pioneers of California and San Francisco forded the River Santa Ana, and on January 4th the expedition reached the mission of San Gabriel.
Rivera had arrived from the north the day before, on his way with ten or twelve men to afford protec- tion to the threatened presidio of San Diego, and to punish the Indians who had destroyed the mission. The disaster and danger at San Diego seemed to justify Anza in suspending his own expedition for a time, especially as the season was not favorable for the immediate exploration of San Francisco. At the request of Rivera, therefore, he determined to proceed with a part of his force to punish the south- ern foe.
The company of immigrants was left to rest at San Gabriel under the command of Moraga, and, after religious ceremonies of gratitude for safe arrival cele- brated on the 6th, Anza set out at noon on the 7th, accompanied by Font and seventeen of his soldiers in
265
ANZA AT SAN DIEGO.
addition to Rivera's force, for San Diego, where he arrived the 11th.10
Naturally, the coming of reinforcements caused great relief to Ortega and his little garrison, who were in constant fear of an attack from the gentiles. There seems to have been some foundation for these fears besides the exaggerated rumors always preva- lent on such occasions ; but, whatever may have been the plans of the savages, their hostile purposes did not long survive the arrival of new forces. One of Rivera's first acts was to send six soldiers to the peninsula with communications for the viceroy and a demand for reinforcements, in view of the recently developed dangers threatening the permanency of the Spanish establishments in California. Then followed investigations respecting the late outbreak, lasting the remainder of the year ; they were imperfectly re- corded, and of slight importance. Raids were made to different rancherías; gentile chiefs were brought in, made to testify, flogged, liberated, or imprisoned, but nothing was learned in addition to what has been already stated.11
It was not long before a difference of opinion arose between the two commanders which later developed into a quarrel. As we have scen Anza had consented to postpone temporarily the special business the vice- roy had intrusted to him, in view of the danger threat- ening San Diego. He found the danger somewhat less than had been represented. He had come to San Diego for a brief, vigorous, and decisive campaign against the savages, but he found Rivera disposed to a policy of delay and inaction. Anza's chief concern
10 Anza, Diario, MS., 89-90, says he took 17 men ; Font, Journal, MS., 22, says 20 men ; Palou, Not., ii. 275-6, makes it 18 men ; and the same author, l'ida, 186-7, implies that there were 40 men. The route from San Gabriel was: 63. River Santa Ana 61. (10 according to Font); Arroyo de Santa Maria Magdalena, or La Quema, 11 1. (14) ; River San Juan Capistrano, 11 1. (14) ; La Soledad ranchería, via San Dieguillo and 68 Agua Hedionda, 9 1. (12); San Diego, 3 1. (4).
11 Anza, Diario, MS., 97-100, 104, 106; Prov. St. Pap., Ben. Mil., MS., i. 22-3; Prov. St. Pap., MS., i. 215-32.
266
EXPEDITIONS OF ANZA, FONT, AND GARCÉS.
was naturally the founding of San Francisco, while in Rivera's mind the protection of San Diego was the only subject at present to be thought of. Anza at first yielded to the captain's views, realizing that as ruler of the province he naturally felt for its safety, but at last tidings came from San Gabriel which turned Anza's attention again to his own affairs. Five men arrived February 3d with a despatch from Moraga and the purveyor Vidal, to the effect that the mission could no longer furnish food for the immigrants ex- cept to the injury of its own neophytes, Father Paterna having distributed rations for eight days and given notice that these would be the last.
On receipt of this intelligence Anza resolved to take his military colony without delay up to Monterey. He agreed, however, with Rivera, to leave ten of his soldiers at San Gabriel, thus relieving a portion of the old guard at that mission for service at San Diego if needed,12 and with the other seven, having sent in advance a mule train laden with maize and beans, he set out on the 9th, still accompanied by Font, and arrived at San Gabriel on the 12th. Only one event occurring at San Diego after Anza's departure re- quires notice in this connection. Cárlos, an old neo- phyte but a ringleader in the late revolt, returned in real or assumed penitence, and, prompted doubtless by the missionaries, took refuge in the church. Rivera sent a summons to Fuster to deliver the culprit on the plea that the right of church asylum did not protect such a criminal, and moreover that the edifice was not a church but a warehouse used temporarily for wor- ship. Fuster by the advice of his comrades of the cloth refused, and warned the commandant to use no force. Rivera then entered the church sword in hand with a squad of soldiers and took the Indian out, pay- ing no heed to the expostulations of the three padres,
12 Anza, Diario, MS., 108. He did leave 12 instead of 10. Palou, Not., ii. 275-6; J'ida, 186-7, implies that the 12 meu were left at San Diego instead of San Gabriel.
267
SAN GABRIEL TO MONTEREY.
Fuster, Lasuen, and Amurrio. The priests proceeded to excommunicate the commander and the soldiers who had aided him, and ordered them to leave the church before beginning service on the next day of mass. The friars reported to Serra, sending the report up to Monterey by Rivera himself.13
Arriving at San Gabriel on February 12th Anza found that the night before three of his muleteers and a servant with a mission soldier had deserted, taking twenty-five horses and other property, part of which belonged to the mission and part to the expedition. The colonists proper, however, seemed content and showed no disposition to desert. Moraga was sent with ten men to capture the fugitives, and before his return Anza resolved to set out for the north. Leav- ing twelve men and their families under Grijalva to reenforce the mission guard, and ordering Moraga on his arrival to follow with eight men, the commandant started on the 21st with seventeen men, the same number of families,14 the mule train, and the live-stock. Heavy rains had swollen the streams and rendered many parts of the route well nigh impassable. Ob- servations respecting the natives of Channel rancherías are omitted by Anza as having been given in the diary of his former trip, a diary which unfortunately is no longer in its entirety extant. Font gives merely an outline of distances and directions.15 With no other
13 Palou, Not., ii. 292-5.
14 The full division of the forces was as follows on Anza's departure: At San Gabriel, 8 California soldiers, 12 families, Sergeant Grijalva, and 4 soldiers of Anza's guard waiting for Moraga; with Moraga, 8 California soldiers (2 of the 10 having returned before Anza started); with Anza, 11 California soldiers, 17 families, and 6 of Anza's men-total 29 out of the 30 soldiers who were to remain in California, one not being accounted for. This explanation is neces- sary on account of the confused statements of Anza, who had no head, or pen at least, for figures.
15 The route was as follows; the earlier part to the sea-shore being appar- ently further south than that followed by the first Spanish explorers in 1769, aud Anza's distances being as before considerably less than Font's. The num- bers refer to Font's map, q. v .: San Gabriel; 119. Rio Porciúncula, 21 .; 72. Portezuelo, 61 .; 73. Agua Escondida, 71. (10); 74. Rio Santa Clara, 91. (15); 75. Rincon or Rinconado ranchería, past Carpintería, 61. (9); [117.] Assumpta River]; 76. Mescaltitlan ranchería, 71. (9); Ranchería Nueva, 81. (9); 78. Cojo rancheria, 71. (10); 79. River Santa Rosa, past Pt Concepcion, rancherias of
268
EXPEDITIONS OF ANZA, FONT, AND GARCÉS.
notable occurrence than an occasional miring of the train, in the midst of which it became necessary to unload the animals, the women meanwhile being com- pelled to walk,16 the immigrants were welcomed March 2d at San Luis Obispo, where next day, as shown by the mission records, Anza stood as god- father to several native children baptized by Font.17 From this place they passed directly north by the modern stage route to the Salinas River, or Rio de Monterey as they called it, reaching San Antonio on the 6th, and feasting on two fat hogs magnanimously killed for their use by order of the friars. Moreover, they were delighted to receive intelligence from the south, having been in great anxiety since they heard of the late disaster. Here Moraga came up, having captured the deserters near the Colorado River, and having left them tied at San Gabriel. On the 10th all arrived safely at Monterey.18
Next morning Padre Junípero came over from San Carlos to congratulate Anza on the safe termination of his march, and to assist with his three companions at the religious ceremonial of thanksgiving, on which occasion Father Font delivered an address of encour- agement with advice to the newly arrived company. Anza and Font went over to the mission by invita- tion of the president, where the commandant was con- fined to his bed for more than a week by a painful illness. On the 18th eight of the presidio soldiers were sent south to reënforce Rivera at San Diego, with a request to that officer to take immediate steps
Pedernales and Espada, 931. (12); 81. Buchon rancheria, 91. (13); San Luis Obispo, 35° 171', 31. (4); over mountains and down Rio Santa Margarita to (83) Ascencion on Rio de Monterey (Salinas), 71. (10); 84. First ford of Rio San Antonio, 81. (10); [111. Cañada de Robles]; San Antonio, 36° 23', 81. (10); S6. Los Ositos, on Rio de Monterey, past Roble Caido (in Cañada de S. Bernabé) 71. (9); 87. Los Correos, on the river, 81. (10); [109. S. Bernabé Cañada; 108. Buena Vista;] Monterey, 71. (10).
16 Hundreds of travellers over the coast stage route in winter, myself among the number, bave no difficulty in identifying this place near San Luis.
17 San Luis Obispo, Lib. de Mision, MS., 31.
18 On the journey to Monterey see Anza's Diario, MS., 112-34; Font's Journal, MS., 25-9.
269
RIVERA'S STRANGE ACTIONS.
for the founding of San Francisco. On the 23d, against the surgeon's advice, Anza insisted on mount- ing his horse and setting out to explore San Francisco Bay, returning April 8th from this exploration, which may be most conveniently described in connection with other San Francisco matters in the next chapter.
Back at Monterey the commandant was disap- pointed in finding neither Rivera in person nor any message from him. He accordingly sent Sergeant Góngora with four men 19 south with letters requesting Rivera to meet him at San Gabriel on the 25th or 26th for consultation respecting important matters. Two days later, on the 14th of April, having turned over his company and all connected with the San Francisco establishment to Moraga, he began his re- turn march with Font, Vidal, seven soldiers of his escort, six muleteers, two vaqueros, and four servants. The parting with the soldiers and their families, whom he had recruited in Sonora and brought to their new home, is described by Anza as the saddest event of the expedition. All came out as their leader mounted to leave the presidio, and with tearful embraces bade him god-speed. Font affirms that according to the list, which he consulted just before starting, there were one hundred and ninety-three souls of the new colony left at Monterey.
Next day between Buena Vista and San Bernabé, less than twenty miles from Monterey, they met Góngora, who announced that Rivera was close behind him, and revealed certain strange actions of this officer. He had met Rivera between San Antonio and San Luis, and in reply to questions had told his busi- ness and presented Anza's and Moraga's letters, which the captain refused to take, simply saying "Well, well; retire!" Góngora followed his superior officer north, keeping at a little distance, and a day or two later Rivera suddenly called for the letters, received
19 Two of the men were of Anza's guard, and the others of the Californian troops. Palou, Not., 288-90, says that Góngora had but two men.
270
EXPEDITIONS OF ANZA, FONT, AND GARCÉS.
them without breaking the seals, and gave in return two letters for Anza which the sergeant was to deliver in all haste. As Góngora called Anza aside and delivered the letters he stated his belief that Rivera was mad. The letters contained a simple refusal to effect or permit the establishing of San Francisco. Góngora was ordered to go on to Monterey, and after proceeding another league Anza met Rivera on the road, saluted him, and asked about his health. Rivera said his leg troubled him, heard Anza's expressions of regret, and started on, as if it were a casual meeting, with a simple adios. "Your reply to my letter may be sent to Mexico or wherever you like," called out Anza, and Rivera answered, "It is well." Calling on the friars who accompanied him,20 to witness what had occurred, Anza, considerably offended by actions which seemed to him attributable to impoliteness and a "great reserve" rather than madness, went on his way, arriving at San Luis Obispo the 19th of April.
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