USA > California > Solano County > History of Solano County...and histories of its cities, towns...etc. > Part 16
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It was in the fall of this year, 1844, that Henry Clay was defeated, and James K. Polk elected President of the United States. Upon this fact hinged the momentous issue of the annexation of Texas, and the consequent war with Mexico in 1846-7, one of the results of which was the conquest of California, and its absorption by the United States, under the treaty concluded at Guadalupe Hidalgo, on the 2d of February, 1848.
Among the irregular proceedings in California during the war with Mexico, was the raising of the Bear Flag, by Capt. Granville Swift and his party, of whom Dr. Robert Semple was lieutenant, and the co-operation with them of Col. John C. Fremont, in the surprise and capture of Sonoma. They took Gen. Vallejo prisoner, and sent him in charge of Dr. Semple on a launch up to Sutter's Fort, where Gen. J. A. Sutter was in command, as well as supplying stores and war materials to Fremont. On the way up, the vessel necessarily passed through the Straits of Carquinez, which were then seen for the first time by Dr. Semple. This was in June, 1846. General Vallejo remained a prisoner at Sutter's Fort about a week, when he was released by Commodore Stockton (Governor of the conquered territory), on his parol of honor, and Dr. Semple accompanied him back to Sonomo. Pass- ing through the Straits again on their return, Dr. Semple became greatly impressed with the advantages here presented for the location of a city, which he explained to the General, who had been so kindly treated, that he not only ceased from opposing, but became friendly to the invaders of his native State, and to encourage them to come within and settle it, not long `afterwards donated to Dr. Semple the site which had impressed him so favorably.
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In pursuance of this agreement the site was surveyed by Jasper O'Far- rell and Lieutenant Warner, and the plat of this survey became substan- tially the map of Benicia. At that date no habitation of man adorned or disfigured the face of the land, which was absolutely in a state of nature, a luxuriant growth of wild oats holding undisputed sway over its un- dulating and treeless hills.
And now commences the story of its early times. About the last of June, Mr. William I. Tustin, a native of Virginia, subsequently a resident of Il- linois, whence he had emigrated to California, and was sojourning at Sonoma, having heard that a town was being laid out on the Straits, came with his wife and son, a lad of four years, to take up his residence in the newly surveyed place. These constituted the first man, first woman and first child of the white race that ever settled and lived in Benicia. It is probable that the aboriginal Indians may have some time preceded them, but there was nothing to indicate it. They found nothing but the sur- veyor's stakes, and no human being in sight, save the surveying party just going away over the hills towards Suisun Valley, having completed their labors for the time being. This family of three camped a few days among the wild oats, until the arrival of Dr. Semple with a cargo of lumber which he had brought in a brig from Bodega. Having made arrangements with the Doctor for two lots on which to build, Tustin dug a well and com- menced making "adobes."
In making his adobes, Mr. Tustin had the assistance of a new comer, a well educated and worthy young man named Charles L. Benedict, who was provided with unusually large feet, and who remarked that he never knew before what they were good for. He speculated on the prospect of some day becoming an old man, and narrating to his grandchildren this exploit of his youth, the honor of tramping in the mud to make adobes for the first house ever built in Benicia, This house, now nearly thirty years old, still stands with its thick walls in a good state of preservation, and constitutes part of the residence of Jerry O'Donnell.
The second house built was a one-story and attic frame, put up for and occupied by Dr. Semple himself. This house became the scene of some of the most interesting transactions of those early days. After, passing through several hands, and being now greatly improved, it belongs to Mrs. J. W. Jones, and is occupied by George A. Hastings and family. It was my residence in 1849-50.
The third house was an adobe built by Benjamin McDonald, and first oc- cupied by Capt. E. H. Von Pfister as a store, subsequently by the firm of Ricker & Evans. This is also in a good state of preservation, and is now occupied as a residence.
Quite a number of houses were built in the Fall of 1847, and families came in and settled. Among these were Major Stephen Cooper, bringing
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with him a load of cabbages from Napa, Mr. Landy Alford, Mr. Nathan Barbour, their respective families, and others.
About this time the settlement of Yerba Buena having adopted the name of San Francisco, and becoming known thereby, the name of Dr. Semple's town which at first had been called Francesca, was changed to Benicia, to avoid complications. This name was given as required by the original con- veyance from General Vallejo, and in compliment to his wife, Francesca Benicia Felipsa Carrillo, daughter of one of the influential families of this department. The signification of the name is blesssed!
In August or September, 1847, Capt. E. H. Von Pfister, a native of New York City, who had been in the habit of trading on this coast, arrived from Honolulu, bringing with him a stock of goods, which he opened and dis- played in the adobe store just spoken of. This being 25x40, was commo- dious enough to constitute the rendezvous of the whole town by day, and to accommodate everybody in want of lodgings by night. The Captain being one of the jovial and hospitable sort, everybody was at home in his presence or under his roof.
Major Cooper's family occupied the house which had been built for Dr. Semple, and furnished board to quite a number of the Captain's lodgers. A year or two later, the Major kept a real Hotel.
About Christmas, 1847, the Major's eldest daughter, Miss Frances Cooper, was married to Dr. Semple, ex-Gov. L. W. Boggs, formerly of Mis- souri, but then Alcalde of Sonoma, officiating. The Governor made the journey from Sonoma to Benicia expressly to perform the ceremony.
As this was the first marriage ever celebrated in the place, the boys deter- mined to honor the event with all the eclat possible. They found in Capt. Von Pfister's stock of goods a lot of white linen pants, and a dozen blue cloth dress coats with brass buttons, and of most approved swallow tail cut. The following are the names of the parties who decked themselves in a suit of this kind for the occasion, viz. : Landy Alford, Wm. Bryant, David A. Davis, Benj. Forbush, Charles S. Hand, Edward Higgins, F. S. Holland, Henry Matthews, Benj. McDonald, Wm. Russell, Geo. Stevens and Wm. Watson.
These twelve good and true men, having first imbibed some good "old rye," the generous beverage of that day, which the Captain had first brought out by the decanter, but as that did not suffice, then by the bucketful, and being thus fortified in the inner man against the overpowering bashfulness that is generally experienced when faultlessly attired in store clothes, marched in procession up to Major Cooper's mansion, and were ushered into the august presence of the bridal party, and it is doubtful if ever on any similar occasion heartier congratulations were extended or reciprocated than on this.
Twenty-nine years later the hearty old Captain who was an eye-witness
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of the scene, relates the event with as much gusto as if it had occurred but yesterday. He alone of all that company, still resides in Benicia.
The second marriage, that of Mr. Benjamin McDonald with a daughter of Landy Alford, was solemnized by Major Cooper, who in January, 1848, had been appointed Alcalde by General Mason.
Some years previous to this date, the peninsula had been visited by a restless native of Yankee land, who recognizing the advantages of the position conceived that some day he would come again, possess himself of the land and perhaps found a city upon the Straits, whereby to make him- self great, and perhaps perpetuate his name. At a subsequent visit, about this time, late in 1847, or early in 1848, to carry his design into effect, he found he was too late, the chivalrous son of Kentucky having anticipated him and gained the prize. In full faith, however, of the future greatness of the place, he obtained a number of its vacant lots, determined to share in the development then so confidently looked for, but died ere he saw any likelihood of his dreams being realized. On Cemetery Hill his resting- place is marked by a plain, white marble monumental shaft, bearing this inscription :-
The Mountaineer's Grave, Here he sleeps, near the Western Ocean's wave ! MILES M. GOODYEAR,
Born in New Haven, Conn., February 24, 1818. Died in California, November 12, 1849.
Selected as his future home, Benicia, where he wished to live, and to be buried at his death.
Dr. Semple was one of the remarkable men of his day and generation. When standing erect he was about seven feet in height, and being rather spare in figure did not impress one as being well proportioned. His hands and feet were large, as well as his mouth, which was seldom untenanted by a chew of his favorite tobacco. He was so long limbed that when astride of a mustang or mule, his feet nearly reached to the ground (within six inches), rendering it necessary for him to attach his spurs to the calves of his boots instead of to his heels. From having to stoop so much when entering or leaving doors of ordinary dimensions, his form was somewhat bent, and it seemed necessary for him not to stand upright, in order the more conveniently to carry on conversation with his fellow-men. In tem- perament he was sanguine and impulsive, in disposition kind and con- siderate, but quite determined to have his own way, in judgment rather erratic, and disinclined to accept the counsel or advice of others, feeling convinced that he knew better than they. Some illustrations of these char- acteristics may possibly appear in the course of this narrative.
It is related of him that a few weeks after his marriage, business called
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him to Monterey. Crossing the Straits with his horse on the open scow ferry-boat, he left directions with the ferrryman to be on the lookout for his return. After wending his way through San Ramon Valley, San Jose and Salinas, to his destination, in the course of two or three weeks he was back again to where Martinez now stands, but the boat was on the Benicia side, and all the signals he could make failed to induce Captain Davis to venture out against the strong head wind that was blowing, and the Doc- tor had to sleep on the ground in his blankets. This state of things con- tinued for two days, and on the third the patience and endurance of the Doctor having been tried to the utmost, he considered that something must be done to enable him to reach home. He could not swim, and even if he could, a swim of two or three miles was a hazardous undertaking, so he finally managed to secure two or three pieces of scantling and a plank, with which by the aid of his riata he improvised a raft, on which with a fair wind and tide he set out astride, pushing himself along as best he could. An hour or two later he was discovered by some of the friends on shore, who did not know what to make of the singular looking object ar- rayed in a bright colored serapa, and holding aloft a signal violently wav- ving. A boat was immediately manned and sent to his relief, and great was the surprise and joy of the men when they found they had rescued the fore- most man of the village. His objurgations on account of the apparent neglect to which he had been subjected were rather more emphatic and vehement than classic or polite, but good humor was soon restored, congratulations ex- tended, jokes cracked, and the Doctor's health drank in something stronger than water. In fact the Doctor had water enough in getting across. They got up a yarn that he was wading across, which made him mad.
A year or two later, the doctor had his scow ferry boat worked by horse- power, having fortunately come into possession of two such machines, for which there was no other use.
Four years latter, when Capt. O. C. Coffin put on the steam ferry boat " Ion," which could go against wind and tide, the Dr. was heard to apostro- phise steam, and sing in praise of Fulton, who had first succeeded in harnessing it to such use.
Hitherto the immigration into California has been attracted by the fact that it was a new country, just coming under the jurisdiction of the United States and likely soon to become a part of its territory. It was known to have some characteristics of climate peculiarly its own, on the whole rather pleasant, and it apparently offered the opportunity for that free and easy out-door life so fascinating to frontiersmen. To the vivid imagination, the land of the setting sun was some degrees nearer paradise than any in the same latitude on the continent, and doubtless it would gradually have developed into an ordinarily prosperous and inviting country. But what might have been is not in order to discuss. The turning point in its destiny had now been reached.
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Simultaneously with the signing of the treaty at Guadalupe Hildalgo, in February, 1848, occurred that wonderful discovery near Sutter's Mill at Coloma, which soon afterward electrified the nation, set the whole world in motion, and has since been the means of adding a thousand millions to the gold and silver treasures of the earth. It was a month or two before the incredulity of Californians could be overcome, and their belief in the reality of the discovery assured.
Early in April, the men of Benicia who usually congregated at Von Pfister's rendezvous, were sitting there discussing the future prospects of the country under its new ownership, and the conversation turned upon coal mines, and the great advantage that would result from their discovery, which was much hoped for. They little dreamed that within 25 miles of them, among the foot-hills near Mt. Diablo, the " Black Diamond " mines were awaiting the prying eyes of the prospector. During the conversation, a man named Bennett, who had been engaged with John W. Marshall, at Coloma, in building a mill for Gen'l Sutter, and who was on his way to Monterey, listened quietly for some time, and finally said that something better than a coal mine had been discovered where he had been at work, something which was believed to be gold, and General Sutter had paid his expenses to Monterey to see Gen'I Mason, and have some specimens that he had with him tested, no acid being obtainable at Sutter's Fort. He then displayed about four ounces in small pieces such as had been discovered when the water was first applied to turn the mill. Of course this display produced a profound impression, and much difference of opinion was ex- pressed, Dr. Semple declaring that he would give more for a good coal mine than all the gold mines that were likely to be discovered.
Bennett went on his journey, and had not been gone more than 5 or 6 days when a number of Mormons came along with quantities of the shining dust, fully convinced it was gold. Sam Brannan, who had been up to Sutter's Mill to learn the truth of the gold discovery, stopped at Benicia on his return to the Bay, said to Von Pfister : "Come, Von, break up here and go in eopartnership with me, and we will establish a business near this new gold mine." Von Pfister did so, put all his goods on Dr. Semple's ferry boat, hoisted a sail, made the trip to Sacramento (then known as the “ embarca- dero "), and in due time arrived at Coloma. On the return of the ferry boat to Martinez after an absence of two weeks, there were 40 or 50 wagons waiting to cross the straits on their way to the new El Dorado.
Von Pfister continued in business with Brannan until October, when he sold out to another partner of Brannan's at Sutter's Fort, named Stout being moved thereto by grief at the loss of his brother who had just arrived from Honolulu, and who was inhumanly murdered by an entire stranger on the night of his arrival, before Von Pfister, who was temporarily absent had the opportunity of seeing him. The murderer fled, and Von Pfister
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pursued, but after an unavailing search of nearly a year he finally gave up the chase and returned to Benicia, where for the last quarter of a century he has constantly resided ; sometimes filling offices of honor if not of profit.
On the night of Sam Brannan's arrival at Benecia a high tide had drifted Dr. Semple's ferry boat some 200 or 300 yards upon the tule, and leaving her high and not exactly dry, and disappointing our friend Tustin, who being engaged getting out lumber for Thos. O. Larkin, was anxious to get back to the redwoods, which he had temporarily left for a day or two to look after his family at Benicia. So he built him a raft of tule reeds some 6 or 8 feet long, making it about 2 feet wide, and a foot thick, on which he proposed to make the crossing. His friends remonstrated with him and tried to dissuade him from going, but to no purpose. Go he would, and so with an old shirt for a sail, and a high wind blowing, he set out. The tide took him down about two miles to Dillon's point, then it turned, drifting him the other way, and by the aid of the wind, notwithstanding his frail bark after getting saturated, bent double under his weight, he finally got across and landed in a mud flat, where he met a man who wanted to cross over to Benicia, and who asked him if he might have his raft. He told him yes, but doubted if it would be of much use to him. However the gift was accepted and the man had a very hard time getting over, for the tide took him some distance up Suisun bay, and it was a day or two before he was rescued, in a forlorn and nearly starved condition. Friend Tustin (now a successful windmill builder in San Francisco) has since attained to alder- manic proportions, quite unsuited to the repetition of his rash experiment.
The natural effect upon Benicia, of this gold discovery and excitement, was to draw away from it its male population, leaving some twelve or fifteen families of women and children only. In common with all other settlements near the bay and the sea, it was neglected for the superior attractions offered by the gold placers. Towards the end of the year, Dr. Semple realizing that the fame of the gold discovery had now gone abroad over the whole earth and foreseeing that there would be a great immigration into the State, mostly of course by sea, and that sooner than he had antici- pated his opportunity to found and establish an important commercial city would be presented, began to cast about for the means and appliances to aid him in realizing his dream. During the winter of 1848-9 he became acquainted with Bethuel Phelps, with whom he made a bargain for the erection of the needed improvements.
As a further step in the way of progress, he formed a copartnership with Wm. Robinson, John S. Bradford, and L. B. Mizner, under the firm name of Semple, Robinson & Co., for the transaction of general business. This firm purchased the Chilian bark "Confederacion," with an assorted cargo of East India goods, and about the 1st of March, 1849, she sailed up to Benicia and was moored along side the bank to be used as a landing place in lieu of a
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wharf. She was dismantled and afterwards known as the " old hulk," and most of her cargo was transferred to the mines. To facilitate access to and from the upland, the firm laid down, across the tule, a large number of boxes of tobacco, the market already being so glutted with the article as to . render it comparatively valueless. The firm were so well pleased with their business that within the year they built a substantial two-story ware- house for its accommodation, a short distance from the landing. Subse- quently, however, as the town began to grow and competition became active, the members found attractions in other vocations. Dr. Semple was elected delegate from Benicia to the Convention which framed the State Constitution, and was President of the Convention, the labors of which were completed on the 13th of October. Bradford was elected to the Senate, and served Solano county in the first session of the Legislature at San Jose in 1850. He subsequently returned to Illinois and became Mayor of Springfield. Robinson went to Shasta county and was elected County Judge. He afterwards joined the fortunes of Gen. Flores in South America. In September, '49, Mizner and S. K. Nurse started a 4-mule stage or mud- wagon, making tri-weekly trips from Benicia to Sacramento, connecting with San Francisco by sloop. This continued a month or two until the arrival of steamers from the East to be put on the Sacramento river, when they hauled off their stage "in double quick," as Nurse expresses it, and sold their mules. Nurse has lived in Denverton since 1854, and has been Postmaster most of the time. Mizner became a lawyer and removed to San Francisco, but some ten years since returned to Benicia, where he now resides. He was State Senator for Solano county in the session of 1871.
Bethuel Phelps was active in the performance of his contract. and during 1849-50 a large number of dwellings and stores were erected, being occupied before finished and ready. In fact the demand for houses was greater than the supply. With lumber ranging from $300 to $600 per thous- and, sometimes more, and carpenters' wages at $16 to $20 per day, it is not very surprising that complaint should have been made of slow progress in building. So the firm of Henry D. Cooke and Wm. M. Stewart, who were somehow concerned in the sale of the bark " Confederacion " and her cargo to Dr. Semple, became interested in Benicia, and contributed largely to its development. Of their agency something may be said after mentioning others, whose influence was brought to bear in advance of them.
Among the passengers on the bark "Confederacion," from Saucelito to Benicia, were Gen. Persifer F. Smith, U. S. A., with some of his staff, and Mr. C. E. Wetmore and wife, who had been in San Francisco since July, 1848. Mr. Wetmore had purchased the house heretofore mentioned as the first frame built for Dr. Semple, and had come with his family to settle. Gen. Smith was so convinced of the importance of the point that he imme- diately entered into negotiation with Semple, the result of which was that
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the portion of the town site bordering on Suisun bay was secured for the Government as a Military Reservation, on which have since been erected Benicia Arsenal, Benicia Barracks, magazines, hospital, Quartermaster's ·store houses, etc., and many troops have from time to time been stationed here.
Com. Thomas Ap. Catesby Jones, U. S. N., had preceded Gen. Smith a few weeks, having taken up to Benicia the first Government vessel that ever entered the straits, the U. S. store ship " Southampton." In honor of her the shoal water space on the north side of the straits and just west of Benicia was called Southampton bay, and is known as such to this day. Special reasons, varying very much from one another, have been given for conferring this name. Com. Jones was enthusiastic in his admiration of the site-the harbor and surroundings - and predicted that the commercial emporium of the coast would here be established. Being in command of the fleet, he had the vessels severally brought up and anchored in the harbor for the benefit of the fresh water. The 74-gun ship "Ohio," then the largest ship in the navy, the frigate "Savannah," the "Congress," the " Preble," the "Falmouth," the "Vandalia," and the transport " Fredonia," were among them. The propeller " Massachusetts" was kept moving on frequent trips between Benicia and San Francisco.
After the establishment of the military post, the French ship "Julie" was sent up with stores and moored along side the bank near where Benicia Arsenal now stands. Col. Silas Casey, U. S. A., the first commander of the post, was quartered on board this old hulk from the 1st of May for some five months with his family, until quarters were erected for them on shore. The ribs of this vessel may be seen to this day at low tide, where she finally sunk at her moorings. Col. Casey had arrived on the ship "Iowa," com- manded by Capt. John Deming, and having on board Gen. Riley and staff, two companies of the 2d Infantry, and other troops from Monterey. Gen. Riley located the Arsenal.
The very favorable opinion expressed, followed by really substantial movements on the part of such men as Com. Jones, Gen. Smith, Gen. Riley, and other Government officers, naturally had the effect of inducing a portion of the immigration then coming into the State to locate at Benicia. Among the earliest was the Rev. S. Woodbridge, by whose instrumentality a Presby- terian Church was organized on the 10th of April, which is claimed to have been the first Protestant church ever founded in California. Among its original members were Prof. Shepherd, Col. S. Casey, Mr. C. E. Wetmore, and Mr. O. P. Evans. Mr. Woodbridge also opened and kept a day school, and kept the records of the township. In August a school house was built which was used on Sundays for divine service, under his ministration, for some two years thereafter. This modest little building, little used of late years, having been superseded by more pretentious edifices, is still standing,
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