USA > California > Solano County > History of Solano County...and histories of its cities, towns...etc. > Part 17
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a monument of the foresight displayed by the founders of the town regard- ing the educational needs of the hoped-for rising generation. The church edifice, which took its place in 1851, stood for about 20 years, when it was taken down and put to other use, the society having disbanded and its members scattered. Dr. Woodbridge is now pastor of a church lately built for and named after him in this city near the Mission Dolores.
In April W. S. Ricker and O. P. Evans started a bakery and country store in the adobe that had been occupied first by Von Pfister. Ricker was the jovial and Evans the serious man of the firm. Profits were large, but their small establishment was six months afterwards overshadowed by the large stocks introduced by the adventurous immigrants that then began to flock in by way of the sea. Evans was gathered to his fathers more than 20 years ago. Whether Ricker still survives is unknown.
In May the large adobe building known as the California Hotel was erected. Capt. Von Pfister rented it at $500 per month, and kept it a year, when he sold out to Capt. Winn. Subsequently it was kept by Major Cooper, father-in-law of Dr. Semple. During a part of this time, owing to the great drought of 1850-51, there was a scarcity of such food as is usually provided at hotel tables. Col. Casey one day asked Mr. Woodbridge about the fare, and his reply was that they had beef and molasses for breakfast and molasses and beef for dinner. In those days onions were $2 per pound. Major Cooper is still living at Colusa, a Well preserved man, who will com- plete his 80th year in March next. For the last 20 years this establishment has been owned and occupied by Mr. John Rueger and family, and known as the Benicia Brewery.
Before Col. Casey got his family into quarters on shore in the summer of 1849, he was ordered in command of an expedition for the first exploration ever made for a railroad route across the Sierra Nevada. The surveying party, when about 70 miles from the valley of the Sacramento, in the mountains, were attacked by the Pitt River Indians, and the Engineer officer in charge, Capt. Warner, was killed. This fact, connected with the ravages of fever and scurvy, forced a return of the party without fully accomplishing its object. Col. Casey lay twenty-five days in the mountains sick with a fever, and all but two, in a party of thirty-five, were taken sick. Gen. Casey is still living at a ripe old age in Brooklyn, New York, on the retired list. His son, Commander Casey, U. S. N., is stationed in San Francisco.
In May F. W. Pettygrove and A. E. Wilson formed a co-partnership for the transaction of a general business. They built a frame hotel, which they called the Benicia House. They brought with them from Oregon nine frame buildings, which were erected in different parts of the town, and some stand to this day.
On the 7th of June the writer of this sketch, with his young wife, came
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upon the scene. The women who ventured to come to California in those days were few in number, but courageous in spirit. We had left Baltimore on the last of January ; New York the 15th of March ; crossed the Isthmus about the 29th ; and after a detention of seven weeks in Panama, em- barked on board the good steamship Panama, Captain Bailey, on the 17th of May, on her first trip to San Francisco, which was accomplished in seventeen days, calling only at San Diego on the 1st of June. Among our fellow passengers were Mrs. Fremont and her daughter Lilly, Mrs. Alfred De Witt, Mrs. Robert Allen (now living in San Francisco, Hon. Wm. M. Gwinn, John B. Weller, Col. Joseph Hooker, Lieut. Derby (afterwards known as Squibob and John Phenix), John Bensley, Hall McAllister, F. F. Low, afterwards Governor of this State, S. W. Holladay, Dr. S. R. Harris, and other well known citizens that have since attained distinction.
Having come to California at the suggestion of my brother-in-law, Mr. C. E. Wetmore, and on arrival finding him located at Benicia, I was in- duced to join him there. We formed a co-partnership for the transaction of a general business, and soon after commenced the erection of a frame building, 30x60 feet, for a store and warehouse none too large for the exten- . sive stock of goods afloat for us on several vessels then on their way around Cape Horn, and bound for the land of gold.
With little or no previous experience as business manager (I had thus far been principally a thorough accountant), and with others to provide for, we could not see the way clear to locate in San Francisco; and as it really seemed an open question which place should take the precedence and become the commercial center, it was comparatively easy to make up our minds to settle in the one that apparently possessed the most attractions or prospective merits, and so our lots were cast in Benicia.
For ten or fifteen years I was satisfied of the correctness of this choice, and on every return from a temporary visit to San Francisco, or elsewhere, regarded Benicia as a charming and blessed place, little short of Paradise. Since then, however, the thought has sometimes occurred that our location there was a mistake ; but as that is a problem that may not be solved in this life, the attempt will not be made. It is useless to speculate on 'what might have been ;' and therefore as our living there has had its influence in various ways and upon others, probably the wisest conclusion is that 'it was all for the best.'
Sometime in the summer of 1849, Dr. W. F. Peabody established a hos- pital, and soon secured a large and paying patronage from returning miners. After a residence of fifteen years Dr. Peabody located elsewhere, and has since established himself in San Francisco. [I am happy to say he is a member of the C. U., &c.] His former associate in the hospital, Mr. J. W. Jones, has remained in Benicia to this day, a well known business man, and
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prominent citizen. In July and August ships began to arrive in numbers, bringing adventurers, some of whom, with their stocks of goods, thought best to locate in Benicia. Among these were Webb, Beveridge, and Miller, and MeConkey & Hall, with goods from Baltimore (per " Greyhound," and " Jane Parker"), brought upon brig " Josephine," and bark "Hebe," and J. Hatch & Co., who had come from Boston on the " Edward Everett."
The ship " Leonore," which arrived in Benicia on the 8th July, brought the first side-wheel steamer ever built in California. It was framed at the East, put together at Benicia, and finished about the middle of August. They called her the " New England," but her machinery proved to be so powerfully weak as to render her practically useless for a steamboat. During the summer three other small steamboats were built here, called re- spectively the "Linda," the " Edward Everett," and the " Phenix." They made a few trips up the Sacramento river, but their day was short, for late in October (the 26th and 28th, if I mistake not), the propellers " Hartford," and " MeKinn," commencing running for passengers and freight on the route between San Francisco and Sacramento, via Benicia. These were the first sea-going steamers to make this trip. They were succeeded by the side-wheel steamer "Senator," which commenced her trips on the 3d day of November, charging $30 fare from San Francisco to Sacramento, and $15 from Benicia to either place. The " Senator " is said to have earned millions of dollars in a few years. And now, 27 years later, she is still running as a sea-going steamship.
Later in November the little iron steamer "Mint " commenced making trips to Stockton. She was brought out on deck of ship "Samoset," in September.
On his return from Monterey, where he had presided over the Constitu- tional Convention, in the winter of 1849-50, Dr. Semple became impressed with the idea that steam-boating must be a profitable business, and ac- cordingly he determined to build one on correet principles, that should astonish the natives, but all lookers on. So far as the hull was concerned, this was easily managed, as material was readily obtained. His favorite idea that her bow must be made duck-breasted, was carried into effect ; and when launched her appearance on the water was rather attractive. But it was when the machinery was to be applied that the " true inwardness " of the Doctor came to the surface. Steam-engines were not so plenty in those days as in these, a quarter century later ; and so as two could not be had that were exactly alike, he obtained two of different make, one being fully twice as large as the other. When the absurdity of furnishing the boat with engines varying so greatly in power was pointed out to the Doctor, his genius rose equal to the occasion. He could manage that. But how ? asked the practical, common sense, incredulous observer. Why, by gearing, of course. With cog-wheels, and other appliances, we'll gear up the one
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engine, so as to equalize its power with that of the other. In spite of re- monstance, argument, ridicule, and other elements of opposition, this idea was adhered to, and the natural result followed as a matter of course. On her first trip she was at the mercy of the current and the wind. The strong engine overpowered the weaker one, giving her a forward movement in the direction of a great circle, the tendency being to bring her round to the point started from. However, by the help of the tide and other favoring circumstances, they managed to reach Colusa with her, for which place she was named. Her first trip, though, proved to be her last as a steamboat. The engines had to be disposed of, and she was converted into a barge. Her builder, Mr. F. P. Burch, with his family, still resides in Benicia ; and her engineer, Mr. R. B. Norman, has for many years been a well known citizen of Sacramento.
The last exploit of Dr. Semple's that occurs to me was his building a house for the use of his family, with an inverted roof-so that what is usually the peak or highest part, was in this instance the lowest, and the roof slanted upwards towards the eaves, instead of downwards, there being but one eave trough, and that in the middle of the roof. What his reasons were for this peculiar construction may have been explained at the time, but are not now remembered. Some are sarcastic enough to say it was from motives of economy in the matter of eave trough.
Among the many early settlers in Benicia was Capt. John Walsh, whose family arrived from Valparaiso in November, 1849, occupying at once the house he had built for them. The captain is a well known citizen, whose fame has gone all over those parts of the world that are visited by ships. He is a privileged character, of whom many amusing incidents are related, some of which he tells at his own expense. Although old and infirm, being now in his eightieth year, and bereft of kindred, who have all preceded him in their flight to the spirit land, he retains much of his original vivacity, and is generally ready to provoke a smile from any visitor by his ready wit. He is able to attend to his duties as Custom-house Inspector, which are performed satisfactorily to the Department. A favorite grandson is the only relative living near him, or in California.
Dr. Semple and his associates, Larkin, Phelps, Stewart, and Cooke, did much to improve Benicia, and make it attractive; and they spared no pains in publishing to the world its advantages, but they failed lamentably in the very particular most necessary to make their enterprise a success. They placed too great a valuation upon their lots, and by demanding high prices drove away from them the very persons they should have induced by liberal terms to settle and build up the town. This was unjust to those that had already settled, and who hoped to see others coming in and pro- moting its substantial growth. But so convinced was the Doctor that the town must develop into a great city, and that nothing could prevent it, that
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nothing could prevent it, that he would listen to no suggestions on this head, On several occasions men wanting to buy property gave up the idea on account of the terms. Had each one of them been presented with a lot, the object of the proprietors might have been accomplished, and themselves rewarded by prosperity and affluence, instead of reaping the disappointment which followed.
A notable instance of their fatuity occurred immediately after the great fire of 4th May, 1851, which destroyed the entire business portion of the eity of San Francisco. A large number of her influential merchants were so disheartened at the repeated misfortunes thus befalling them that they were ready and anxious at once to transfer their business to Benicia, and a delegation waited on its proprietors to see on what terms they would be received and provided for. The terms were too exacting ; the application failed, and the opportunity was lost-absolutely thrown away. The appli- cants were angered at their failure, and embittered against Benicia, a feeling which survives measurably to this day-while the bona fide settlers of Benicia, who would have welcomed their San Francisco brethren, were dis- gusted with the cupidity and bad management of its founders.
As another illustration of events in these days, it should not be forgotten that Capt. Lyon, who had been sent out to punish the Indians that were hostile and troublesome, came very near being killed by the awkwardness of some of his own men, a bullet from one of them passing through his hat from back to front. In mentioning it to General Riley on his return, and exhibiting the hat, he claimed that that shot did not come from an enemy. The General's reply was, it certainly did not come from a friend. This brave officer was afterwards, during the war of the Rebellion, the lamented General Lyon, who fell at the battle of Lexington, Missouri, in August, 1861.
Among the immigrants of 1849, were some old farmers from the East, to whom the alternation of the wet and dry seasons appeared to present in- superable objections to the idea of this ever being an agricultural country. The laws of nature to which they had been accustomed were here set at defiance, and their conclusion was that cultivation of the ground would be useless in the absence of summer showers. Yet here on these rolling and dry hills waved the luxurious, almost rank growth of wild oats, four or five feet in height. The soil being adobe, and two or three feet in thickness, has since nullified the opinions of these good old farmers, and still persists in yielding fine crops of grain, notwithstanding fifteen years of cultivation.
In the remarkably wet winter of 1849-50, it was no easy task to walk on this adobe ground where traveled upon, without being in danger of losing a boot when drawing one's feet out of the mud, and so it came to pass that long rubber boots were at a premium.
As an offset the following winter, that of 1850-51, to which this present one of 1876-77 bears a close resemblance, was correspondingly dry, and rubber boots proved a bad speculation.
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The Constitution of the State of California. which had been framed by the Convention at Monterey, in October, was adopted by the people at an election held on the 13th November, 1849, and in accordance with its pro- visions the first Legislature met in January, 1850, at the Pueblo de San Jose, the first Capital of the State. The first two cities incorporated by this body were Monterey and Benicia, both on the same day, the 27th of March, 1850. Some days afterwards, San Jose, Sacramento, Stockton and Los Angeles were incorporated. San Francisco followed, on the 15th day of April.
Under its charter, Benicia had nine Mayors, as follows: Capt. James Kearny, from May 1850, to May, 1851.
Dr. W. F. Peabody, from May, 1851, to May, 1852. Capt. D. M. Fraser, from May, 1852, to May, 1853. Capt. Alex. Riddell, from May, 1853, to May, 1854.
Charles French, from May, 1854, to November, 1855.
W. S. Wells, Acting from November, 1855, to May, 1856.
J. M. Neville, from May, 1856, to May, 1857.
T. B. Storer, from May, 1857, to May, 1858. Charles Alison, from May, 1858, to May, 1859.
The charter was amended in 1851 and 1854, and repealed in 1859, since which time the government of the city has been vested in a Board of Trustees. The city charter was found to be an expensive luxury, by means of which the city debt was incurred little short of $100,000 in 1859. This has since been reduced, uutil at the present time an arrangement has just been effected by which it can all be redeemed for the sum of $6,000, and the taxpayers breathe freer.
Mayors Kearny, Fraser, Riddell and French died some years since. Mayors Peabody, Wells, Neville and Alison are residents of San Francisco, and Mayor Storer lives in Virginia City.
A. J. Bryant, who was City Marshal of Benicia in 1854, is now Mayor of San Francisco.
At the same first session of the Legislature, Benicia was named the county seat of Solano county, and so continued for eight years, when it was superseded in 1858 by the present county seat, Fairfield.
The first Sheriff of the county was B. C. Whitman, afterwards Clerk of the Common Council, subsequently a leading lawyer in Benicia, and now an ex-Judge of the Supreme Court in the State of Nevada. The second Sheriff was Paul Shirley, who held the office several years. He now resides on the other side of the Straits, in Martinez, and is State Senator from Contra Costa county.
The fourth session of the Legislature was held in Benicia early in 1853, and on the 18th of May of that year an Act was passed making it the permanent seat of Government, but as no appropriation was made for the
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erection of public buildings, and the Capital in those days was notoriously on wheels, it was not a difficult matter at the fifth session to move it again, and so on the 1st day of March, 1854, the Legislature and attaches, furni- ture and all, left Benicia on the steamer Antelope for Sacramento, where the Capital has since remained with some show of permanence. This move- ment was brought about by a combination between the workers for Sacra- mento and the friends of the lamented David C. Broderick, who desired and expected thereby to be elected to the United States Senate, but who was disappointed in that expectation, although in a subsequent Legislature he was successful. Broderick was absent from Benicia when the vote was taken on the removal question, and there was no telegraphic communica- tion then with San Francisco. If there had been, the result probably would have been different. Either Broderick would have been elected first, or the Capital would have remained at Benicia. On such slender threads does the fate of communities sometimes depend.
In those palmy days Benicia boasted among its residents, some of the prominent and distinguished men of the State, among whom may be men- tioned Judges S. C. Hastings, John Currey, S. F. Reynolds, E. W. Mckinstry, and others, who have since been absorbed by the commercial metropolis.
The Masonic Order made an early start in Benicia. Benicia Lodge, No. 5, was formed in 1850. Masonic Hall was built in 1850, and is a substan- tial edifice to this day. The lower floor was occupied as the Court House, County Clerk and Recorder's office until the State House was built in 1852. The State House became the Court House until 1859, when on account of the removal of the County Seat, it became the property of the Board of Education, and has ever since been occupied as the Public School, one of the most commodious and substaintial in the State, and being of brick is likely to last for several generations. The attendance is large.
The Odd Fellows organized somewhat later than the Masons, but have flourished so successfully as to possess a fine brick edifice of their own which affords them most desirable and satisfactory accommodations. They are known as Solano Lodge, No. 22.
Several newspaper enterprises have from time to time been established in Benicia, but none of them now remain. The Benicia Gazette was published in 1851, by St. Clair, Pinkham & Co. A bound volume of this publication is in the possession of the Society of California Pioneers. The Benicia Vedette was published by - - Mathewson in 1853. The Solano County Herald commenced its publication in November, 1855, and three years after- wards was moved to Suisun, where it still flourishes under the altered name of the Solano Republican. The "Pacific Churchman " was published here in 1869-70, since which time it has been established in San Francisco. The The " Benicia Tribune" was published by R. D. Hopkins in 1872-73 ; since then it has been transferred to Dixon, where it still flourishes as the Dixon
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Tribune. There was a Benicia Sentinel at one time, but it was a short- lived affair.
In 1850-51 when it was difficult for masters of vessels to retain their crews, on account of their disposition to desert to the gold fields, and try their hands at digging or mining, as many as 60 or 70 ships were to be seen at anchor in Benicia harbor, most of them loaded with lumber, which became a drug in the market and was offered for freight and charges. After the 4th of May fire in San Francisco this state of the lumber market was remedied, and the ships gradually withdrawn.
The P. M. S. S. Co., for whom Alfred Robinson and Geo. W. P. Bissell were agents, established the depot for their shop and supplies at Benicia early in 1850, when their first wharf was built. In 1853 they increased the size of the wharf to its present dimensions, and put up the machinery shops and foundry.
From this time on for 16 years or more the company enjoyed an era of unexampled prosperity, every attempt at opposition helping as much as hindering it. By steady accumulation and the growth of its business its capital was increased from year to year until in 1869 it amounted to not less than ten millions. In 1869 came its first encounter with its great competitor, the Overland Railroad. Up to this time Benicia had been greatly benefited by the location of the company's works, and its liberal disbursements. As long as the company remained at Benicia they were prosperous. Then came a dispositson to branch out, to water the stock and provide for the friends of the new management. All this was not so con- veniently managed while the works were located at Benicia, so it was determined to move everything to the city. From that time the history of the company shows a series of questionable managements, and a departure from its old prosperous ways. From being worth about $150 or more per share its stock has fallen to $20-the present price being about $24. Benicians remember the periodical visits of the California, the Oregon, the Panama, the Tennessee, the Northener, the Golden Age, St. Louis, Sonora, Golden Gate, Golden City, Sacramento, John L. Stephens and others with regret, that the noble ships which succeed them come not in their place.
The Marysville & Benicia R. R. Co. was incorporated in 1853, with a capital of $3,000,000; $10,000 was spent in surveys, by Wm. S. Lewis, Esq., as Chief Engineer, with the celebrated Mr. Catherwood as consulting engi- neer.
So strongly impressed was Mr. Catherwood of the feasibility of this scheme, that he went to England to present the plan there; and with the aid of a brother of his, who was one of the cashiers in the Bank of England, he raised $1,000,000, which was one-third of the capital; but on his return to this country from England, went down in the ill-fated steamer " Arctic," off Newfoundland, which put an end to that project, which would mater- ially have advanced the fortunes of Benicia.
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This imperfect sketch of the "Early Times in Benicia," cannot properly be brought to a conclusion without a brief reference to the educational and religious movements of the place. To Benicia belongs the honor of having established the first Young Ladies' Seminary in the State, under the auspices of the Protestant churches. In June, 1852, the enterprise was proposed, and immediately enlisted the favor and hearty symyathy of many friends. A Board of Trustees was organized, a suitable building purchased, and the school opened about the Ist of August, with Mrs. S. A. Lord as Principal, and Miss Georgia Allen, and Miss F. A. Allen, as Assistants. The second year Miss J. M. Hudson became Principal, with the same Assistants. The third year, the school became the property of Miss Mary Atkins, whose fame as a teacher has since become part of the educational history of this State. The school became deservedly popular and successful ; and its graduates, under Miss Atkins' administration, have since taken rank in society as among the best educated and most cultivated women in our State. After twelve years spent in her high vocation, Miss Atkins sought rest; and in 1866, transferred the school to Rev. C. T. Mills and wife, who kept it up in a high state of efficiency and prosperity, until 1871, when they, having been induced to move to Alameda county, disposed of the school to Rev. Chas. H. Pope, who, during the year that he held it, made some valuable additions and improvements. Since 1873, the school has been under the management of Miss Mary Snell, who, with her sisters, and other accom- plished teachers, have maintained its excellent reputation as one of the best schools in the State. In October, 1871, under the auspices of the Rev. Mr. Pope, then Principal, a re-union of graduates and pupils was held in honor of the visit then paid to the institution of its former proprietor, Mrs. Mary Atkins-Lynch, with her husband, the Hon. John Lynch, then U. S. Surveyor- General for the State of Louisiana, and during the past year, Centennial Commissioner for the same State. His duties in that capacity will detain him in Philadelphia until March next, after which time Mr. and Mrs. Lynch will take up their permanent residence in California.
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